CliffCare

19th May 2007

The VCC is the only climbing organisation in Australia to employ a professional Access and Environment Officer, Tracey Skinner, who is working for the climbing community in three ways:

Education - promoting 'low impact' climbing.
Advocacy - negotiating with land managers to maintain access and re-open popular cliffs,
Protection - organising work parties and raising money to preserve the cliff environment

We ask every active climber to put in one day per year on practical repair and protection projects. Email Tracey at to register your interest in coming activities.

You can contact the Access & Environment Officer via:
Phone:
Post: GPO Box 1725, MELBOURNE VIC 3001
Email:

Want to protect you climbing future right now?

You can donate online to the Victorian CliffCare Trust through our new secure facility provided by "ourcommunity.com". Donations over $2 are tax deductible. Your donation will help us to protect the places you love to climb. Just click here

Access Officers Report
28th May 2010 Tracey Skinner
Queens Birthday weekend at Arapiles will be the next date for the Arapiles Repair Project. Sunday 13th June 3.00pm until 5.00pm Top summit carpark meet point I know I say this everytime, but we’re pushing for the biggest turnout yet. We have moved most of the rock in the upper half and as noted in the report last month, the top section of the Pharos Gully Track is almost completed with only two sections to go. The goal with this Working Bee is to get every last rock in the top down to those last two sections. In order to get this done we will need a good turnout. Please, book yourself in to help out for a couple of hours. At the end of the working bee we will be putting on a bbq(sorry, no steaks, just sausages.We’re on a budget) For those that do book in with me beforehand, I will be able to provide the food. If I don’t have you counted in the numbers, you will still be able to enjoy the bbq but you will need to provide your own. And due to public pressure, being a birthday and all, there will be cake!! To register your interest and for further information, send me an email at cliffcare@vicclimb.org.au Back in 2008, the Draft Management Plan for Mt Kooyora was released, with a call for submissions from the various stakeholders. I submitted one on behalf of the VCC. This submission can be downloaded from the VCC website but below are the key points which were included and which we hoped would be taken on board. With regards to the recent Draft Management Plan for Kooyoora State Park, our suggestions relate to section 6.11, (p34), Rock Climbing and Abseiling. One of the strategies listed is: • Prohibit the use of wire brushing while climbing and the development of new climbing routes. Remove bolts, lower off points and other climbing aids unless approved by Parks Victoria. Climbers at Kooyoora have demonstrated respect of the Parks Victoria Rock Climbing Code in the past, and will continue to do so in the future. It allows us to enjoy a recreational activity which we have a deep passion for, while minimising the impact that we have on the areas where we climb. We feel removal of any of the current safety bolts, lower off points should not be occur without consultation with the climbing community and bodies such as the Victorian Climbing Club. Some of these were originally placed not only for safety reasons but to prevent possible deleterious effects on the environment such as erosion. Therefore, we would like to suggest the following wording for this strategy: * Prohibit the use of wire brushing, while climbing new or existing routes. Current climbing aids, such as safety bolts and lower off points, shall remain in place. Should removal of these be considered, liasons between Parks Victoria, the Victorian Climbing Club and local climbing groups will occur. The Management Plan has now been released. You can download the full plan here – please read for full understanding, but below is an excerpt from the Aims that relates directly to the above. • Prohibit the use of wire brushing while climbing and the development of new climbing routes. The placement of additional permanently placed climbing protection will only be conducted in liaison with Parks Victoria. Whilst this may not be word for word what we would like, we do feel it is encouraging and allows a much more collaborative relationship between Parks Victoria and the climbing community than what the original in the Draft Management Plan did. Cheers, and Safe Climbing, Tracey Visit our photo site to see the problems at the cliffs and of the work we undertake www.vicclimbingclub-cliffcare.smugmug.com

FIRE RESTRICTIONS IN PARKS
12th Feb 2010 Tracey Skinner
CODE RED HOW IT IMPACTS ON CLIMBERS AND WHAT YOU NEED TO DO Many of you will now be aware, due to the new fire warning system, Parks Victoria are putting in place various procedures that will now become commonplace in many of the parks we climb at. On days classed as Code Red, parks will be shut and visitors/campers are expected to leave and not return until the Code Red no longer applies. Unfortunately two of the areas we frequent the most, Grampians and Arapiles do fall into one of the higher risk areas - the Wimmera region. This has of course caused much debate within the climbing community,indeed the community in general ie knee jerk reaction, nanny state etc.etc. There is no denying that having to leave the area you are camping at, be it the Pines Campground, a formal campground in the Grampians or a lovely, secluded bush camp will be a general pain in the ss. But knowing what the situation is, will at least mean being a little prepared for what you will be required to do should they declare the day code red and close the park. Once Code Red has been declared for the next day*, all visitors/campers will be required to leave by early morning of the Code Red day. If the day following that has been declared ok you can return to camp on that morning. You will not be allowed to return in the evening of the Code Red day. You are allowed to leave your belongings such as tent, chairs, table etc if you prefer but the responsibility will be yours. As to where you go – well, there does seem to be some confusion there. Hopefully as time goes by, more information will be available Taken from the CFA site: Depending on where you are, relocation options may include shopping centres, swimming pools, libraries, community centres, neighbourhood houses, public halls, cinemas, leisure centres and other community facilities out of a high risk area. For International visitors this information may prove more tricky to ascertain, so if you are camping help out those from overseas with a few handy hints.

Draft Recreation Regulations in Parks-You Yangs -Feedback Needed!!
12th Feb 2010 Tracey Skinner
DSE are asking for feedback for their latest Draft Document for state parks and their recreational use. This could affect climbing in parks such as the You Yangs etc. The VCC will be putting forward a submission in writing but it is also very important, that as many climbers as possible also do individually. Numbers get noticed. We might like to fly under the radar generally in our sport but there are times, and many more of them nowadays that we need to be noisy. Deadline is 5th March. Small excerpt below and links where you can view the whole thing. Rockclimbing is page 20 on the draft http://www.dse.vic.gov.au/DSE/nrenfor.nsf/LinkView/1AEBFC0832F294E4CA25763F00128935444A3546C0C6BD394A2569AA00787FA4 Regulation 20 covers rock climbing and similar activities (1) The managing body may by determination set aside any area of a forest reserve or forest park as an area where rock climbing, abseiling, hang gliding, paragliding or any other similar activity is permitted. (2) A determination under subregulation (1) may specify the times or periods during which the area may or may not be used for the purposes for which it has been set aside under subregulation (1). (3) A person must not rock climb, abseil, hang glide, paraglide or carry out any other similar activities in a forest reserve or forest park unless— (a) he or she does so in an area set aside under subregulation (1) for that purpose and in accordance with the determination setting aside the area; or (b) he or she does so under and in accordance with a permit issued by the Secretary. Penalty: 10 penalty units. (4) The Secretary may issue a permit for the purposes of subregulation (3). And link to the DSE media release http://www.greenhouse.vic.gov.au/DSE/dsencor.nsf/LinkView/600CDA0722E4288FCA2576C0000059EC250370F0D4508518CA256F040021E0EB

Anchor Testing(PV) at various sites used by Commercial groups
8th Mar 2010 Tracey Skinner
Parks Victoria are currently undertaking anchor tests in a number of climbing areas in various parks. The anchors they are testing are ones that they have either been involved in installing or acknowledge them. Basically, what this means is that the climbing/abseiling areas in parks that they book commercial groups into are required to be checked. This will mean all the anchors, not just the ones specifically they have been involved in ie. Werribee Gorge. They are not checking any other fixed protection and as I said, only at specific areas. These are listed below. Anchors tested will be tagged. Vertigo have been engaged to do the testing. The test is a pull test at 7.5kn for 2 minutes and using the European standard test for rock. Should the anchor fail the test it will be removed. Unless there is feedback to the contrary that the anchors are still required, they will be replaced. So this means they are under review. As I mentioned this is primarily because of PVs responsibility/duty of care to the commercial groups they book into using an area. They will be getting feedback from the commercial groups as to any anchors that fail and whether they are used by them. Areas to be tested: Brisbane Ranges – Staughton Vale You Yangs – Big Rock Urinal Wall Royalty Walls Gravel Pit Tor Nightfall Pinnacles Werribee Gorge Cathedral Ranges – Main Wall Tested so far: Staughton Vale – all anchors passed test You Yangs – Big Rock West – 2 anchors failed and removed The anchors that failed at Big Rock West were very old, didn’t look particularly good for the job. They pretty much pulled out and the readings were so low that the meter didn’t have a chance to record a level. At this point they didn’t have a guide so I can’t tell you what routes they serviced. Next up,most likely next week, is Urinal Wall. There is one set of anchors there that I have been advised will be removed as they are set back on a large boulder at the top. When they were originally put in, the boulder would have been more solidly set in the ground whereas now there has been a loss of about 25 cm of ground due to erosion. So where do we, as individual climbers fit in? They would also like our feedback. Along with commercial groups we also use the areas. Although it is a bit difficult to ascertain without knowing the specific routes the anchors serve, any thoughts you have on anchors in these areas would be really helpful. They now have a guide so I can be informed if any of the anchors fail and what routes they serve so that we are aware. Are there any anchors that are redundant in anyones opinion due to new and better anchors having been put in more recently? Which routes are the most popular and therefore imperative that the anchors are replaced? I know this all seems a little general - If anyone has knowledge of the anchors at all/or any of these areas, please get in touch. The guide doesn’t give too much info on anchors. I am waiting back for answers on more questions and hopefully will have some more specifics on the routes One of my concerns was that if anchors were removed, how would climbers doing the routes be aware that they were gone, especially until I know which ones are affected. Response was all of these areas are accessible via walking to the top and that due to the fact that commercial groups use the area there are always a minimum number of anchors available – another one could be used in the mean time until replacement. So, if you know any anchors that do not fall into this category, ie no other anchors close by, let me know. As much feedback as possible would be great so that I can try and ensure that any anchors that do fail have the minimum amount of time before they are replaced. I stress, none of the other fixed protection is being checked. For continuing discussion on this, you can also check out Chockstone here

Grampians National Park Road and Track Report
12th Feb 2010 Tracey Skinner
Grampians National Park Road and Track Report 12th Febuary 2010 ROAD / TRACK NAME STATUS SURFACE COMMENTS ASSES EARS ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD OKAY BEEHIVE TRACK OPEN GRAVEL 4WD Okay BELLFIELD FIRELINE OPEN SAND /GRAVEL Okay BILLYWING ROAD OPEN GRAVEL / SAND Okay, BILLYWING TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL 2WD CLOSED BLACK RANGE ROAD OPEN GRAVEL Good BOMJINNA TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL 2WD Closed BOROKA RD OPEN BITUMEN Good BOUNDARY TRACK OPEN SAND 4WD Good BRIGGS TRACK OPEN SAND 4WD OPEN BRIM SPRINGS TRACK OPEN GRAVEL / SAND Good BRIMPAEN ROAD OPEN GRAVEL Good BULLAWIN ROAD OPEN SAND 4WD Good BURMA TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL 4WD Closed BURNT HUT CREEK TRACK OPEN GRAVEL 4WD OPEN BURRONG TRACK (SHORTCUT) OPEN GRAVEL 4WD OPEN CARTER TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL CLOSED CASSIDY GAP TRACK OPEN GRAVEL Okay CASTLE ROCK TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL / SAND 4WD CLOSED CHINAMANS TRACK OPEN GRAVEL 4WD Okay COOINDA BURRONG TRACK PART CLOSED (CAMP) GRAVEL Good COPPERMINE TRACK OPEN 4WD GRAVEL 4WD Good CRUTE TRACK CLOSED (MVO) SAND Closed EAST WARTOOK TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL / SAND Closed EMMETT ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD Good FIELDS TRACK OPEN SAND 4WD OPEN FLAGSTAFF TRACK OPEN GRAVEL / SAND 4WD OPEN FLAT ROCK ROAD OPEN SAND Good GEERACK TRACK OPEN GRAVEL / SAND Good GLENELG RIVER ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD See Notes GLENISLA CROSSING ROAD OPEN BITUMEN Good GOAT TRACK OPEN ROCKY /GRAVEL OPEN GOAT TRACK NORTH CLOSED (MVO) ROCKY /GRAVEL Closed GOLTON SOUTH TRACK OPEN SAND 4WD Good GREENS CREEK ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD Good GRIFFIN TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL / SAND Closed HAPPY TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL 2WD Closed HARROP TRACK OPEN SANDY/GRAVEL See Notes HEATHERLIE TRACK OPEN SAND 4WD 4wd track HENHAM TRACK OPEN SAND 4WD Good 4x4, HINES TRACK OPEN GRAVEL 4WD Reasonable HOMESTEAD TRACK CLOSED SAND 4WD Closed for environmental reasons. HUT CREEK TRACK CLOSED (MVO) ROCKY Closed INGLETON TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL / SAND Closed JENSENS ROAD OPEN SANDYGRAVEL Good JIMMY CREEK ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD Good LAUNDER TRACK OPEN ROCKY 4 WD OPEN LINK TRACK (POHLNER) OPEN GRAVEL 4WD OPEN LINK TRACK (SERRA) CLOSED GRAVEL 4WD LODGE ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD Good LONG POINT FIRELINE CLOSED (MVO) Closed LYNCH'S CROSSING TRACK OPEN SAND OPEN MAFEKING ROAD OPEN GRAVEL / SAND 4WD Good MAIR TRACK NORTH OPEN GRAVEL 2WD OPEN MATTHEW TRACK OPEN SAND 4WD OPEN MITCHELL ROAD OPEN SAND 4WD Good MOORA TRACK OPEN SANDY 4WD OPEN MT.CASSELL FIRELINE OPEN SAND 4WD OPEN MT.DIFFICULT ROAD OPEN SAND GRAVEL GOOD MT.DIFFICULT TRACK OPEN GRAVEL / SAND Open, See Notes MT.WILLIAM ROAD OPEN BITUMEN Good MT.ZERO ROAD OPEN GRAVEL See Notes MUIRFOOT TRACK OPEN SANDY OPEN OLD MILL ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 4WD OPEN OSTLERS TRACK OPEN SAND 4WD CLOSED PHILLIP ISLAND BREAK TRACK CLOSED REVEGETATED SAND 4WD PHILLIP ISLAND TRACK OPEN SAND Good PICNIC GROUND ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD Good PINES ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD GOOD PLANTATION ROAD OPEN SAND 4WD Good POHLNER ROAD OPEN GRAVEL Good POMONAL TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL 4WD CLOSED RED GUM LEASE TRACK OPEN 4WD GRAVEL Good RED HILL ROAD OPEN SAND 4WD Good RED ROCK ROAD OPEN GRAVEL / SAND GOOD REDMAN TRACK REDMAN GRAVEL/SAND OPEN REES ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 4WD Okay RICKY NORTH TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL Closed RICKY SOUTH TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL Closed ROSE CREEK ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD See notes ROSEA TRACK Closed GRAVEL 4WD Closed past Bundaleers ROSES GAP ROAD OPEN BITUMEN Good SANDERS TRACK OPEN GRAVEL 4WD OPEN SAWMILL TRACK OPEN SANDY 4WD Reasonable SERRA RANGE TRACK CLOSED SAND Closed SERRA ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 2WD Good SEVEN DIALS TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL Closed SHILCOCK TRACK CLOSED (MVO) SAND Closed SMITHS ROAD OPEN GRAVEL / SAND Good SPEARS ROAD OPEN GRAVEL / SAND Reasonable STOCKYARD TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL Closed STONY CREEK ROAD OPEN SAND 4WD Good STUBGATE ROAD OPEN GRAVEL Good SUNDIAL ROAD OPEN BITUMEN Good SYPHON ROAD OPEN SANDY 2WD Good TAYLORS ROAD CLOSED GRAVEL 4WD CLOSED TERRACE TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL / SAND Closed VICTORIA RANGE FIRELINE CLOSED (MVO) ROCKY Closed VICTORIA RANGE TRACK OPEN GRAVEL/ROCKY 4WD OPEN WALLABY ROCKS ROAD OPEN SAND 4WD Open WANNON DIVERSION TRACK OPEN GRAVEL 4WD Good WESTERN HWY LINK TRACK OPEN GRAVEL Good WATERWORKS TRACK CLOSED (MVO) GRAVEL / SAND Closed WONDERLAND ROAD OPEN BITUMEN Good YARRAM GAP ROAD OPEN BITUMEN Good YARRAM PARK ROAD OPEN GRAVEL 4WD Reasonable YANGANGINJ NJAWI TRACK OPEN GRAVEL 4WD Reasonable ZUMSTEIN TRACK OPEN GRAVEL 2WD Good Please Note • Mt Zero road has been graded for 7km North of Halls Gap, The rest of the road is quite corrugated in places. Please take care when travelling in this area. • Billywing Road and Harrops Track are corrugated and dusty between Buandik Campground and the Henty Highway. • Clearing and drainage works have been carried out along Mt Difficult 4x4 track, The surface may be quite loose in places . • Most of the seasonally closed tracks have now been cleared and open, Rosea Track and Homestead Track are remaining closed for another 12 months as a requirement to protect the area. Seasonal tracks that are now Open Launders track Victoria Range road Mair track Matthews track Link track Flagstaff track Lynches Crossing track Bellfield Fireline Burnt Hut Creek Track Fields Track Briggs Track Muirfoot Track Moora Track Sanders Track Ostlers Track

THE GRAMPIANS
21st Nov 2009 Tracey Skinner
GRAMPIANS ACCESS UPDATES STAPYLTON BOULDERS After negotiations with the VCC, the private landowners have granted permission for access to the Stapylton Boulders via their property. The boulders sit on park and private land boundaries with most of the problems only able to be accessed via the private property itself. The owners have kindly agreed to allowing climbers to access these problems. Signs have been installed outlining the guidelines for use and the 10 metre boundary around the boulders. Please respect the rules which are all perfectly understandable: • Remove all rubbish you bring • No Toileting on the property • Stay within the 10 metre boundary As you will read in the article, this positive result began with an initial enquiry by David Pearson and Chris Webb-Parsons about access issues to the boulders. With their new bouldering guide to the Grampians due out shortly it was important that these boulders could be included and that the relationship with the landowners was a good one, built on trust and honesty. Hats off to them for going about it from the start with the right intentions, and setting an example to others about how things can be done. And hats must go off to the landowners for allowing us access. Any problems, issues or concerns please contact me at cliffcare@vicclimb.org.au Besides the general care of the area, keep an eye on the property as well. Anything untoward, let me know even if it has nothing to do with bouldering. A good way to give something back. Cliff areas still closed due to the Dec 05-Jan06 Bushfires. Cliffs not mentioned here can be presumed open, but if in doubt please contact me and I can let you know. Tracey Skinner cliffcare@vicclimb.org.au (0425 771413) The area around these cliff is generally classed to be still quite fragile. In the case of some of the Central Grampians cliffs, these areas have been temporarily closed due to the release of the endangered Brush tailed Rock Wallaby PLEASE be aware that there is limited bush camping in the Victoria Valley. All entrances are signposted. These areas are still very sensitive. There is no camping allowed in caves in the Grampians National Park. Campfires are only allowed in official fireplaces Halls Gap & Wonderland Area Mackeys Peak Central Grampians Tower Hill Eastern Wall (Peking Face) Western Bloc Moora Rocks Castle Rock ASSES EARS RE-OPENS Although the area is showing some good regrowth, especially with the trees, the ground is still fragile in some areas. But with the lack of rain, this might be the best we can expect for awhile. The track has been very clearly marked with orange tape and cairns so that people can keep to the one. I’m sure people who know the area will find it very obvious, but for those who haven’t been there before, this should make sure. In a year or two, once the track and regrowth is better established, we can remove some of these markers.As I mentioned there are some sections that are loose – please whenever possible walk on the rocks as opposed to the soil. Other cairns and tracks have been dismantled. The badly eroded old Jeep track that leads to the walking track is also to be ripped up so as to prevent any more vehicles from driving up there. MT ROSEA Following a recent complaint from a number of climbers in regards to the access track to the Giant Staircase at Rosea being blocked, I contacted Sylvia Van der Peet who is our Liason Ranger in the Grampians. This issue had previously been resolved along with our track identifying markers after our last working bee at Rosea in preparation for its re-opening. PV understand that we use the track, but one of their main concerns is that in general, walkers don’t, as it is not an official track and is not maintained. Often walkers end up on it as they are not clear where they should be continuing to. After a meeting with Sylvia and Graham Parker(Head Ranger)last year the idea of a sign with directions of summit and car park on it was agreed upon. While this certainly wouldn’t be a ‘climbers’ sign making reference to the climbers track it would point people generally in the direction they were wanting to go – walkers to the summit, climbers to look for their descent track. The track to access the Giant Staircase is not supposed to be too obtrusive but as with the last incident, it has ended up being quite obscured by branches and brush that have been placed to deter walkers. So instead of being a subtle track you need to keep an eye out for, it became blocked and non existent. With a few not too happy climbers finding it. Sylvia got onto it immediately though after I contacted her and the blockage has now been removed. I haven’t had the opportunity yet to go and check it out. While it needs to be able to be seen to be accessed, please keep in mind that it doesn’t need to be a highly visible track. The sign is not yet up but is still on the agenda to be placed and hopefully once this happens, any future problems will be resolved. CARE WARNING: 14/12/08 When climbing or walking at Rosea, please take extra care. There has been some rock and tree fall of late. Could be due to the fire damage or the dry conditions but whatever it is due to, it certainly seems to suggest that the area is going through some definate changes. Whilst climbing can still be enjoyed there, it pays to be wary, especially if you are planning to rap off anything. Info of note: Tree on Mixed Climb is dead. As it is a soil ledge, the stability of this will need to be assessed as time goes on and the roots rot. Tree on R.I.P. corner is alive and has new growth. Trees on Ascension area are dead. BUNDALEER With regards to the boardwalk and wooden cairn that was installed under Manic Depressive/Narcotic, this is to protect a cultural site identified by Aboriginal Affairs. This is an area of stone scatter and the whole ground area is not to be disturbed. The Cultural Values team agreed that rather than closing the site, they would allow a boardwalk to be built. While it is understood that accessing the climb might be different, it would be appreciated if you could keep to the boardwalk, thus respecting the wishes of the Koori culture and ensuring that we may continue to use this area. CAMPING IN THE GRAMPIANS BUSH CAMPING IN THE VICTORIA VALLEY The majority of Bush Camping is currently still off limits in the Victoria Valley. Good news though...There are 5 of the 'official' bush camps that are open around the Bundaleer and Rosea area. They are: Tower Hill Bush Camp and Stony Creek Rosea Track,. These two are in a Conservation Zone so only fuel stove to be used. Rosea Views, Stony Creek Rd Two, and Stony Creek Rd One. These three are in a Recreation Zone so fire is allowed in the fireplace provided. bush camp map All other bush campsites in the Victoria Valley will remain closed until further notice. UPDATE TO BUSH CAMP STRATEGY(14/12/08) Although the Bush Camp Strategy is still a work in progress, the following gives you an idea of how many of the current known bush camps will be closed or modified. 1. Bush camp sites which contravene the guidelines in the current GNP Management Plan Too close to a designated campground (4 sites) Too close to a watercourse (5 sites) Too close to a sealed road (1 site) Special Protection Zone (2 sites) Possibly in No Camping Area (2 sites) 2. Modification of bush camp sites which partially contravene the regulations/guidelines in the current GNP Management Plan Part of site too close to a watercourse (5 sites) 3. Closure of bush camp sites which contravene the set aside once it comes into effect Bush camp site too close to fire dam (5 sites) Bush camp site too close to bee site (3 sites)

Taipan/Spurt Wall Track Working Bee

24th Aug 2007 Tracey Skinner

The walk in track to Taipan/Spurt Wall was showing noticeable signs of wear and tear so a workday was planned for 22nd September 07. The base of Spurt Wall also needed some stabilising work to be done. Fifteen volunteers turned up for a joint project between the Victorian Climbing Club/CliffCare and Parks Victoria.

To see some pics of the problems and the solutions visit www.vicclimbingclub-cliffcare.smugmug.com

MT ARAPILES

MT ARAPILES ACCESS UPDATES

Water is always limited at Mt Arapiles. Sourced from a bore, this is a finite resource so please treat it as such. Bring all your own water and leave that there for the toilet amenities. There is a rainwater water behind the flushing toilets so you can obtain some water there if it is full.

Arapiles Repair Project

Sept 08

A further grant was successful with the Pharos gully now being targetted. Previous work started on the access track was undertaken by Friends of Arapiles. A time consuming and labour intensive job, CliffCare will be joining forces with Friends once again to complete the stonework. A cast of thousands will be required, but as always, it's hard work but great fun. MUMC have put their hands up for the April 09 project. Put yours up too!!

Sept. 2007
Pharos Gully Tourist Track and Bushrangers Bluff

Following a successful Parks Victoria Community Group Grant, the Pharos Gully Tourist track underwent some repair work with silt traps being installed, fencing barriers erected in the car park and revegetation work. Bushrangers Bluff was suffering from some severe erosion, due to its popularity as a group climbing area. Dry stonework was undertaken around the base of Melville cave area and some of the access track. This will not only prevent further erosion but will ensure that the vegetation has a better chance of surving.
walter at bushrangers

Walter Braun the stonemason on the time intensive stone pitching, filling in with gravel.

bushrangers complete3

Lots of aching limbs and the work is finished at Bushrangers Bluff.

DONATIONS

Chuck a buck or two, or three or more into the Friends of Arapiles Donation box which is situated outside of the mens toilets in the Pines Campground. All of this money goes directly into projects at Arapiles.

Arapiles Feasability Study

The Arapiles Feasability Study findings are now available for viewing. Go to this link http://www.parkweb.vic.gov.au/resources/ms_0250.pdf

Download the original VCC' submission on the Downloads page

Ask not what your club can do for you - ask what can you do for your club.

VOLUNTEERS REQUIRED There are many ways you can help and volunteer. Maybe you can’t find the time to get to a cliff and help out with the working bees. Never fear – I have Something just for you……… Graphically skilled person – Looking for someone who can help with some great visuals for a series of CliffCare Posters. You can help to get the message across and at the same time have your art(acknowledged) seen in all the right climbing places. So…what you waiting for? The invites there. Give me a call, send me an email. cliffcare@vicclimb.org.au 0419563 733

WANTED : OLD PHOTOS
21st Nov 2009 Tracey Skinner
I am currently working on an education project in the form of a portable photographic display that can be taken to places such as gyms, climbing festivals, event nights etc. Anywhere that climbers predominantly, might frequent. Strong emphasis being to target and reach those that are newer to the sport and have often come into it via a gym environment. One element of it is a before and after section. Both the positive and negative. Speaking to people out there, some seem quite unaware of the impact of prolonged use – maybe because they have no point of reference. So I am hoping that a visual might stay in peoples minds and at least get some to think a bit more when they use the areas. On the same token, there are areas, that through climbers efforts at caring for them have improved. So, what do I want? Photos. They don’t necessarily have to be climbing shots. Just ‘before’ pictures that show various areas as they used to be. I can then take relevant ‘after’ shots for comparison. I suppose a bit like recent global warming time shots. All areas, from Arapiles to Grampians, Buffalo, Teneriffe, Camels Hump……wherever you may have pictures from. Especially those that you have seen the changes yourself. I will arrange to collect photos, have copies made and your originals returned safely and promptly. Alternatively you could scan them and send them through to me via my email. If you can see to spare a bit of time and go through your old pics that would be brilliant and very much appreciated. Many thanks

How Many Words Does a Picture Paint ...

Too many to mention really. Have a look yourself. For a more extensive selection on the work that CliffCare does and areas that need our help, check out our new photo site www.vicclimbingclub-cliffcare.smugmug.com And there's a few climbing pics there as well.

ARTICLES

21st Nov 2007 Tracey Skinner

RECIPE OF THE MONTH

(Argus Nov 09)

Ingredients: Boulders, Books and Access

With a highly anticipated Grampians bouldering guide heading our way soon, editors David Pearson and Chris Webb-Parsons have made all efforts to make sure that its been done ‘just right’. Great photos, clear topos, a wealth of routes to make every boulderer worth their torn fingertips,drool. This has been a long time coming. And included in that doing everything ‘just right’ is making sure that there are no concerns with access. Particularly that in regards to private property. Dave and Chris were keen to include the Stapylton Boulders (pictured above) – it just wouldn’t be a guide without them. The boulders sit on the boundary of the NP and a private property. Sure you can access a few routes at the front of the boulders from the park but the majority of routes sit on private property. After discussions with the guys, I put together a proposal for the owners asking for permission for climbers to be able to access the backs of the boulders via their property. We are pleased to say that the owners have agreed. They have no problems with the boulders
being accessed as long as it is just that –accessing the boulders. Below are the guidelines for use of the area. This is another positive step towards relationships between climbers and landowners.
The owners have been really generous in their agreement and I am sure that all who climb the boulders will do their best to look after things. Do right by them and keep an eye on the place. Any concerns contact cliffcare@vicclimb.org.au

· Remove all rubbish you bring
· No Toileting on the property
· Stay within the 10 metre boundary

Huge thanks to the owners and huge thanks to Dave and Chris who were determined to do this right. And it’s paid off for them and the rest of the climbing community.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

(ARGUS DECEMBER07)

With the constant influx of new climbers hitting the crags, it is imperative that the information that guides our use of the cliffs is constantly available, and as much as possible, easily accessible. Whether this be through word of mouth, climbing websites such as the VCC and Chockstone, or guides and magazines, this can often prove to be tricky with the wealth of information to wade through. While the safety and technical issues of climbing are mind boggling and consuming, the issues of access and more specifically, the codes and regulations that guide our continued use, can sometimes be left a bit by the wayside in the pursuit of our passion.

And then for others,some of the ambiguity that exists within the relationship between Land Managers such as Parks Victoria and climbers, can lead to a blasé attitude across the board.

For the most part, there is an extensive range of crags to climb at in Victoria, with minimal access issues. Which is probably why many people don’t think too much about it until there is an issue. The climbing community seems to be quite happy that our sport/lifestyle is not mainstream and quietly operates without too much fanfare. In many ways, self regulating, we try and follow a sensible code of guidelines. This of course can have some variance- what is a concern for one person will differ to the next. But the rules that have been laid down for our use, are just that, rules. Some may be unfair (we’re working on that) and others are perfectly acceptable and are absolutely necessary in order to control our impact. And to ensure that these areas continue to be available to us, as a user group, we must be seen to be a responsible one. Given the environment, scope of distance and staff availability, one could say many of these rules are unenforceable. And this is often where our skills at self regulating come in. You can be pretty sure that what seems like a great idea to you, is also a great idea to another, and another and another. So is that being a little flexible with the rules, or is it flouting? Or that moment of not taking that little extra care, cause it’s just you - and you and you, and you. Is that acceptable or is it noticeable impact? This is not intended as a wrist slapping – the majority of climbers do try and make the effort. But the fact of the matter is that once an area starts getting trashed, the motivation for others to look after it diminishes. A gradual degradation allows the eyes to adjust and for many, they only get to see the area after the impact……and then…. whats to look after?

Granted, wading through rules and regulations of the National Parks is far less enjoyable than catching up on the latest send of the hardest line, or finding out more about the proper way to clip runners but, it is the very stuff that our access depends on. With some recent comments/complaints about a number of issues in the Grampians National Park, it might be timely to revisit, refresh or possibly acknowledge for the first time. http://www.parkweb.vic.gov.au/1process_details.cfm?note=20

* Camping in caves is not permitted.
* Campfires are not allowed unless in an authorised fireplace.(circle of stones doesn’t count)
* Before establishing a new climbing area, the approval of the land manager (in GNP this means PV) must be obtained. In existing (ie. Documented) climbing areas, be conscious of minimising the visual and environmental impact of new climbs:
* Access to cliffs is only permitted on existing tracks. Contact Parks Victoria or DSE if you believe a new track is required, or if a route to a cliff needs marking. Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion and the need to mark new routes.
* Chipping of rock is both illegal and unethical.
* Do not leave litter such as old slings, lolly wrappers, tea candles etc. Take all your rubbish home. Keep campsites clean.
* All native plants and animals are protected. Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Pruning vegetation along cliff lines, wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

The recent Aboriginal Heritage Act brought into effect in May 2007 could have implications for climbers. In parks such as the Grampians, this Act means that the whole of the park has been declared an area of cultural heritage sensitivity. The park needs to prepare and have approved, a Cultural Management Plan if they wish to create a new track or re-align an old one, so development of new climbing areas without permission,besides being against park rules, can directly contravene the Act.

More than anything, maybe a little extra thought needs to be taken when choices are made. And whether the future consequence is worth it.

Hive Database

24th May 2007 Rob Martin

Date Reported	Status	Region	Crag	Climb	Location	Guide Book	Height of Hive from Ground	Information Source
13-May-07	Confirmed	Mt Arapiles	Tiger Wall	Shtarde		Arapiles/ Djurite (Shepherd)	42m	Kieran Loughran
26-Apr-07	Confirmed	North West Grampians	Black Ians Rocks	Snapper Crack		The Black Guide	12.5m	Dale Thistlethwaite
26-Apr-07	Confirmed	North West Grampians	Black Ians Rocks	The Jury Box		The Black Guide	At Start	Dale Thistlethwaite
20-May-07	Confirmed	Mt Arapiles	Mari Buttress	Megalomaniac		Arapiles Selected	At Start. Right side	Don
16-May-07	Confirmed	Mt Arapiles	The Atridae	Collision Course		Arapiles Selected	10m	Louise Shepherd
16-May-07	Confirmed	Mt Arapiles	Right Watchtower Face		In dead tree near rap station	Arapiles Selected	1m	Louise Shepherd
16-May-07	Confirmed	Mt Arapiles	Mitre Rock		Tree hollow in car park		3m	Louise Shepherd

Black Ians Rocks - Access Details

There is a camp-site on the private bush block just next to Black Ian's rocks. Look out for a big sign pointing you to "Red Rock Camp". This camp has a shed, lots of off-street parking and a freshwater tank. And, soon, a box for you to put a few bucks in! The walk from your car to the cliff should now take you about 35 seconds. The site was set up by the local farmer Barry Bell, because he didn't like having to drive his stock past climbers bivvying by their cars! You can just rock up, or you can contact Barry on 53 83 7506 or . Note: Please be aware - there are three known active bee hives at the location of three climbs. Two of these can be seen: Jury Box (on the ground) Snapper Crack One out of sight: Subpoena(this can only be seen near the top when you pull over the ledge)

CATHEDRAL RANGES
10th Jun 2010 Tracey Skinner
10.06.10 All access to Sugarloaf Saddle (Cathedral Range State Park) will be unavailable between the dates of the 21/6/10 and the 25/6/10 this includes both roads and walking tracks. Cerberus Rd will be closed at the southern end near Mt Margaret Rd, and at the northern end at Cooks Mill. This is to ensure the safety of the public during extensive tree works. 18.12.09 The Cathedral Ranges opened, as planned just before Christmas. Whilst the park has quite noticeable regrowth, thanks especially to the rain we have had this year, the area is still fragile, more so the closer you get to the cliff. The access track which leads off from the main track to reach the cliff is in a pretty bad state. A couple of visits have taken place to look at possible realignment but after a number of attempts, a rethink is in place. For the time being please take extra care when heading up there using this access. The other option is the very original track which leaves further up the track to the Farmyard and then contours back to the cliff base. This crosses much more stable ground and has been recently cairned quite noticeably. It is longer in distance but not so steep. Realigned though, is the descent track after you have climbed a route and reached the summit. You head off right onto the saddle and into a gully which has had little impact by the fire. This has been marked with pink tape. The ground here is very solid except for the last bit where you need to cross back right to the cliff base. The old descent path is completely destroyed and is basically just loose, sliding soil. Once the weather gets cooler a visit will take place to see if a little stabilizing might help the the current track in place The Parks Victoria website will also have details of park opening. Visit them at http://www.parkweb.vic.gov.au/

RED ROCKS/BEN NEVIS
26th Jul 2007 Tracey Skinner
Following recent bushfire at Red Rocks/Ben Nevis area, accessing the Abseil Gully from via the Hanglider track and across the top of the cliffs proved to be quite treacherous with much loose soil underfoot. A new access track has been established and now cuts across the hillside allowing you to then find yourself immediately at the gully. At the Hanglider power line warning sign, instead of continuing directly up the hill, head to the right following all the cairns along until you come to some large boulders in front of you, wheupon you turn left and head down to Abseil Gully. There is some fire damage to rock at the base of the climbs and in various areas where there was vegetation on the cliffs. In general though, most routes are ok to climb. As in any fire damaged area, take care.

Wilson's Promontary - Climbing Access - Tongue Point

After various invetsigation, rangers have infomed the VCC that climbing is definitely not permitted at Tongue Point. This is very disappointing as John Stone (the previous VCC Access Oficer) and others worked very hard at getting Tongue Point included in the Climbing management plan that Parks was putting together some years ago. Climbing is allowed at five sites within the park, these areas being; Elephant Rock (Mt Bishop), Mt Oberon Summit area, Trackside Wall, Turtle Rock and the Squeaky Beach Boulders. A map showing the location of these areas is avilable here[WilsonsProm.jpg currently off line]. Climbing at all of these sites, except Squeaky Beach Boulders, requires a permit, which cost nothing and are available from the Ranger's Office. I am interested in hearing from climbers that have visited Tongue Point (and other areas in the Park) so I can ascertain the volume of climbers visiting these sites. Thanks to those that have already sent me information. Hopefully there are enough climbers interested so that Parks can be swayed into rethinking the closer to Tongue Point. You can contact me via details at the top of this page.

Werribee Gorge - Access Update
12th Feb 2010 tracey skinner
Part of the track that we use to access Falcons Lookout has now collapsed. A section of the track cut up along the creek bed has given way. Take care to not make it any worse. This will be investigated shortly and stabilized. ACCESS DETAILS: The access trail to Falcons Lookout follows an old railway worker trail part way down the first gully then follows the creek bed before heading up a ridge and following a spur into the trail on the other side of the fence. A map can be downloaded here, or is displayed in the window of the Ranger station in Bacchus Marsh, which is located on the corners of Main St and Lord St on the Melbourne side of Bacchus Marsh.

Teneriffe
14th Dec 2008
INDIGENOUS HISTORY Taking care of the environment covers many areas. Many of the locations we climb at have had a previous history of indigenous culture. Some of this may not even be apparent to the untrained eye. Cultural heritage sites such as artwork and caves are a little more obvious, but much exists out there that consists of unobtrusive rock markers, chippings etc. Teneriffe has a long indigenous history and after a recent visit with a concerned resident/historian and two clan elders, discussions took place to try ensure that any cultural activity that has occurred, remains as undisturbed as possible from now on. While no formal restrictions have been put in place, the hope is for no further cairns/rock formations to be created or in turn, dismantled. Much of the climbing in the area now has a quite well marked track to access it. Should it be decided on at a later date that some kind of directional signage is necessary at minimal points, small arrows will be attached to a tree. PLEASE : NO CONSTRUCTION OR DISMANTLING OF ANY ROCK FORMATIONS/CAIRNS AT TENERIFFE ACCESS: The owner of the property in the saddle area, Jon Day doesn’t mind people accessing the cliff via his property provided that they: · Do not park in front of his gate or on the road(chain across road) · Keep away from the house and livestock. You access the cliffs from Oak Valley Road. The track to Jon's property is opposite Chalmers' restaurant. You can follow this to the Y-junction with the saddle area up to the right. Parking at the end of the road is a bit of a problem. Two-wheel drive vehicles may be able to park off the road when it is dry but in the wet you may have park further out and walk in. Also, Peregrines nest on the Magic Block, Jon asks that you don't climb there from August to early December. To access all other climbs walk 150 m back along the road towards the Y intersection and use a large rock with a cairn on its top to cross the fence(caution:electric fence) at the step. Walk up the steep hill to saddle/ridge. Follow the saddle/ridge to the left through a break in the fence then walk right around rock and up a track behind it. About 20m further, a central track heads right across the slope. This track meanders northwest for about 1.4km and all other climbs can be accessed from this track. Climbing is not permitted in the Saddle area. There is a nice campsite in the bush on private land at the other (western) end of Teneriffe. Contact Access Officer for details. Parking at Sparrow Slabs Anyone who has visited Teneriffe from the Sparrow Slabs end will know that there is little space to park on the narrow access road. Fearing a threat to access that might follow a climbers’ car accidentally blocking the road for a local farmer, the VCC Committee approved spending around $300 for a small road widening exercise. There is now space for 3-4 cars. Please use it, and keep road space for passing traffic. Restricted Access at Western End Due to private landowners wishing to retain some control over access, they have asked directions not to be widely publicised. Instead you can call the Access Officer on 0425 771413 a few days before you wish to go.

Warragul Rocks (Tallarook) - New Access Details

If you go climbing up at Tallarook you'll find the access road had been blocked off and many signs posted on trees stating: 'Trespassers will be prosecuted'. The land (including all of Tallarook rocks) has been purchased by a new owner (Ron Milanovic), and whilst he is happy for people to climb there, his main concern was stopping the idiots who dump cars there. The owner, Ron Milanovic, has requested that all climbers contact him on 0413 402 744 before climbing on his property. Just park at the fenced-off area and walk in, only about 100m away from the cliff. Also it would be wise if no bolts or anchors are placed or replaced without the owners authorisation. A new fence and access gate will be installed on the property boundary. Hopefully this is a win for climbers. Ron is checking into the liability issue with his insurance company so hopefully they don't spoil the party.

Restricted Access Details

Here are some access notes to help you find a way to some good cliffs via private land. In each case, the owners of the private land want to keep some control over access and so they ask that the directions not be widely publicised. Instead, you can get directions by ringing the VCC Access Officer at the VCC on 0419 563 733 a few days before you want to go. The cliffs are: 1.Granite road outcrops (You Yangs) 2.Rolling Stone Wall (near Euroa) 3.Teneriffe (access to climbs at western end of the cliff)

Banned Climbing Areas

This is a list of areas where climbing is banned. It is in no way conclusive so please don't automatically assume because an area is not listed below, climbing IS allowed. In most of these areas climbing is banned due to fear of litigation or environmental concerns, however the exact reason in each case has not been researched extensively (due to time constraints). The only thing that climbers need know is that it is banned, not why! If it was your property would you need to explain to trespassers why they can't cross it? The reason for not listing why (apart from the work involved in researching it) is that climbers may then try and use the reason to justify allowing themselves to go there because they; (1) They don't think they will have an accident and therefore won't sue anyone and; (2) they are aware of the environmental concerns and so will take action to minimise their impact. Each VCC guide also identifies which areas within the coverage of the guide are banned. Banned climbing areas include: Cumberland River Lal Lal Falls The Organ Pipes Hanging Rock Barfold Gorge Plenty Gorge Daintrees Cliff, Pyramid Rock, Junction Hole & North Side (all in Werribee Gorge)

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