Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria and/or arapiles.net

BUSHRANGER BLUFF

Six Wet Troopers (28m)
The least mossey line about 3m right of Big Dog's Cock Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Rhonda & Emil May 96

SOUTHERN AREA

Ddark Ddigit Area (left of Hunger Gully)

What's My Motivation 12 25m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: On the left of the entrance to Hunger Gully is twin cracks through a shallow prow. 25m. Up to cracks and up to the ledge below Urban Sprawl. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins. 1995.

Buttress Buttress Gully (Upper Hunger)

**As you enter from above the first two lines you reach are Uncle Fistula and Dance of the Flaming Anus

Nempnett Thrubwell 12 25m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Opposite VIMH Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet, Greg Pritchard, 15.11.99

?? ?? 25m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell.25m Up following faint line to top. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins, 5.12.99

Angry, gun totin', meat eating people 18 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake. 10m Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague arete to top. Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, Richard Smith, 19/11/1999

The first six inches 20 20m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: Three metres right again is another flake. 20m Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof. Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, Richard Smith, 19/11/1999

Voices in my head 20 20m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Start: Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. 20m. Start in the corner and work up to the right, stepping back left to a rest. Then swing up right to finish. Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, James Falla.

Someone shoulda shot Elvis back in '57 15 20m (courtesy arapiles.net)
See if you can pick the theme running here? Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner. 20m Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right. Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet, Greg Pritchard, 15.11.99

Twelve Long Haired Friends of Jesus in a Short Tailed Microbus 15 15m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal. 15m Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up. Nikki Sutherland, Jon Bassindale and Greg Pritchard. 13.1.00

Gutless Gutless Bunny 20 15m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket. 15m Up line. Paul Hoskins, Richard Smith, 5.12.99

KING RAT AREA

Wittgenstein Walls (Upper King Rat)

Pilot Error Environs

THE ATRIDAE

Flight Wall

Agamemnon Buttress

ORGAN PIPES

Stentor
The last pitch of this (from the top of Piccolo) was originally done by the Ottens (same party as put up Today). Somehow the Ottens got dropped. They deserve to be re-instated, it is a bloody good pitch. Kieran Loughran

Skin Flute 14m 18
At top of piccolo, approx 3m R of Stentor, take flake and pockets staying left of dark streak near arete, rap off. Shaun Kratzer, Joshua Janes. Mar 2004

Skin Flute sounds like direct start to "What is Carborised?" (Shepherd Guide page 52). Maybe it keeps left of the arete in the upper parts but there's not a lot of new climbing. Kieran Loughran

*Abbie Normal 24 24m
Start just L of Wyrd, bridging up gully to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings. Douglas Hockly, Ingvar Lidman 2002

Discord Direct 17
From Kieran Loughran: "Discord, just left of Toccata in the Organ Pipes, was one of the earliest climbs at Arapiles. Climbed three months after Toccata it was one of the harder climbs at Arapiles at the time, put up by two of the strongest climbers. In its day the first pitch of Discord was one of the closest things to a sport route that we had in Victoria with protection from two bolt runners and a bolt belay. The seams on the crux section are too fine for the crude nuts that were available at the time and too shallow for pitons but a couple of stances allowed bolts to be drilled on lead. Unfortunately Discord has fallen into disuse. In large part this is probably due to the obviously unpleasant nature of the original finish, a shrubby, tight chimney. Few people seem to have taken note of the excellent alternative finish put up by Richard Curtis and Phillip Armstrong in 1980; add to this Digby Gotts' direct start and there are the makings of a really good climb. Another contributing factor to Discord's unpopularity may be that the original bolt runners were foolishly chopped in the early seventies. This was a misguided effort, disdainful of the efforts of the pioneers. I believe that the first bolt in particular should have remained; the wire protection at that point is fiddly and slightly dubious. The bolt was placed on lead so is not an overhead runner but it would provide an assurance against ripping the gear down to the base of the ledge. Perhaps it is time for it to be re-bolted. In recent years the original and direct starts to Discord became overgrown, with key runner placements and holds on the direct start being choked with dirt. Here's the climb description from the old "Green Guide":
DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe First Pitch 40':- Move right up the ramp leading to the base of Toccata and about 15' to the left of Toccata, traverse left a few feet to a good ledge and bolt runner. Climb the shallow groove with difficulty to a resting place and a second bolt runner. Move out right and attain a standing position on top of the obvious square block on the smooth face on the right. Move back left to a good ledge and bolt belay a few feet above the last runner. Second Pitch 100':- Step four feet onto the arête and go up to beneath the overhangs. Move back right to join the original line and fix the first runner of the second pitch. Continue in the same line, via a narrow awkward chimney, to the top. First Climbed:- Peter Jackson, Reg Williams -Alternate leads (24/9/65)

What I am suggesting here is combining the guts of Discord with a direct start and the sort-of-direct finish. It's an unusual climb for the Organ Pipes as it is mostly delicate moves up a water-washed groove before an exciting overhang. I'll give it a grade of 17 overall but it's probably on the soft side of that grade. With a bit more traffic and clean holds it would be good, solid 16. Take a normal rack but maybe double up on sizes around #1 Friend with a view to hanging onto them until the overhang. The direct start begins down left of Toccata at a smooth groove leading to a grassy. You step off a rock-step to start so it's straight into nasty landing territory. A couple of little RPs let you balance up on positive footholds until a good big piece can be slammed in. The exit onto the ledge is vegetated but there are good positive holds and you can just brush past the vegetation. The holds and protection cracks on this section should be clean at present. If you don't want to do the direct start, the original traverse in from Toccata is still worthwhile. At the ledge, what remains of the first bolt is visible on the left side of the groove. Fiddle in some wires, cursing the missing bolt, and then balance up some more to the next rest and good runners and another chopped bolt. The old belay bolt is just above and it's probably not too hard to just go straight up but it's cleaner and quite nice to move out right onto the little square-cut block and then back left. You can belay here by the bolt but it's a small stance and you haven't really come very far so it's probably a good idea to keep going and do the good stuff in one pitch. From here step left, minding the loose block, and move up to the overhang: easy but no good runners. Nowadays the crack above the old belay is clean so you could climb straight up for a few moves instead and then traverse left to below the overhang. There's some good gear at the overhang and committing moves up the little corner to reach up out left to a hold on the lip and pull onto the front of the buttress. It's a good position on the front of the buttress and there's just a few more pulls up the buttress until it eases off. This time, for some reason, we went leftish towards the gully but straight up is probably better; I seem to remember going that way the first time I did this so don't ask me why we went left. Find a spot to belay on the buttress and then it's easy but undistinguished climbing up the buttress, moving right as it eases off to reach the rap anchors of Toccata. An alternative would be to traverse right and finish up the top pitch of A Concerted Effort; I haven't done this but it could be a more enjoyable finish".

Above Toccata there is the Cirque of the Climbables, a small bowl ringed by cliffs. On the right wall there is potential for some new routes.

Middle 8 14 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: In the middle of the wall on the black rock. 15m Up then slightly right into line and to top. Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins and Chris Frost. 22.3.00

CENTRAL GULLY LEFT SIDE

Ann 12m 9
Obvious crack through the centre of the main wall right of the roof. Poor protection down low. Dave Millard, Tim Harris. 7.1.04

Falling Upward 15m 21
Start on the mossy ramp directly below the roof, follow the thin crack up left side of roof, steeply to the top. Poor protection above roof. Dave Millard. 8.1.04

Good As Gold 15m 9
Start at the base of the mossy ramp and follow left sloping crack 2 1/2 m left of Ann, finish up left face of the bulge. Tim Harris, Dave Millard. 7.1.04

The following climb is on the eastern wall right of Leafy Quoit Lump.

Sage 20m 5
Starts 4m right of the overhang. Follow crack to the right of the hanging boulder. Finish up to the gap in blocks. Tim Harris, Dave Millard. 8.1.04

Wailing Wall Back

Stoat Wall

With an F! 12 18m (courtesy arapiles.net)
The arete left of Duck off Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins Sept 2000.

Dog Wall

Above Dog Wall

Two Dogs of Empiricism 4 20m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: On the left edge of the black slab, in the gully right of Dog Wall. 20m. Up following edge of slab. Greg Pritchard, James Falla, 16.7.99

* Ball Terrier 14 15m (courtesy arapiles.net)
More fun than sex! A fantastic route! Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism. 15m. Up, finishing on arete. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 6.8.99

Ball Terrier is a nice little climb but I'm not sure that it quite rates the rave write-up. Kieran Loughran

I dont know what to call it - dog 22 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
The tenuous line up the slab 2m right of Ball Terrier. Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins. 31.12.1999.

Poop Scoop 22 8m (courtesy arapiles.net)
10m An equally tenuous line up the slab right of ???. Paul Hoskins, Richard Smith. 31.12.1999

Opposite the black slab is a small pinnacle.

Click my Lit 16 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Cooner Spunnilingus? In the back of the gully is a crack on the right wall, up higher. 10m. Up this, avoiding temptation to bridge back. Richard Smith, solo, 6.10.99

Arethusa 19 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
With every ascent we'll throw in a free pump! Start in gully underneath the best part of the wall. 10m. Up steepest part of wall, 1 metre left of arete. Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard. 6.10.99

Roman Rabbit Hummer 10m?Ì (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: The arete between Arethusa and Bitch Wank. 10m Up arete. Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins. 31.12.1999.

Bitch Wank 14 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front. 10m. Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard. Spring 1997.

The pinnacle behind this has been dubbed Jeff Kennett's Buttocks. The things that go up Jeff Kennett's Buttocks are:

A Little Ray of Sunshine 12 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
10m. Line up left end of wall. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard. Spring 1997

Lloyd Williams Nose 12 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
10m. Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard. Spring 1997

Felicity's Tongue 16 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
1. 10m. Wedged in the middle of Jeff's Buttocks. The easy looking right-hand crack. James Falla, Greg Pritchard. 16.7.99

The wall on which Tadpoles finest hour, All alone in the dead zone, is. (And Tad would know.)

http://www.climb.webprovider.com / 16 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
The first route in the world to have its own web-site! Start: In the hanging gully at the back of the All Alone in the Dead Zone (Shattered) buttress is an obvious corner. 10m. Up the corner, finishing slightly left. Richard Smith , Greg Pritchard, 6.8.99

*Glass Goblin 20 25m (courtesy arapiles.net)
"That's the best move I've done in my life." James. This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic! Start. Left of Shattered there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey. 1. 10m. Up to gear, step left and up into line then follow line up left, laybacking at will. When it's all over you can step left to a small stance on the arete. 2. 15m. Climb the fantastic arete. Pull through first roof on left and then up to and through second roof. You can scramble off left from the top of the first pitch, or from below the final roof. James Falla, Greg Pritchard. 23.7.99

Mortality 12 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Is an anagram of Tim Taylor. Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake. 10m. Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish. Greg Pritchard, James Falla. 23.7.99

Charity Buttress

Great Pissing Ledges 15 (14m)
Between Charity and Hope are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab. Deb Churches, Mark Witham 10/1/96. Note since doing this climb the Mentz Tempest guide to Arapiles mentions a climb called Hope Variant Start. Great Pissing Ledges is a direct continuation of Hope Variant Start which remains completely independent.)

CENTRAL GULLY RIGHT SIDE

Other routes on same block:

Up In My Bedroom 19 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: As you walk off the top of Mari Buttress you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up form the small climb down. 10m Up Righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top. Richard Smith, Jon Bassindale, 26.11.99

*Maman! Maman! 21 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: In the gully right of UIMB, on the left wall. 10m Up to pin, step left then up headwall. Jon Bassindale, Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard. 23.12.99

Don't do this 18 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
"Doing a new route with me is like sleeping with me. It can be fun at the time but you're not particularly proud of it afterwards" Start. Right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing Central Gully. 10m. Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top. Nikki Sutherland, Deb Sweet, October, 1999.

Lets do Lunch 17 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: On the right arete of Don't Do This. 10m Up arete and swing through roof. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, Nikki Sutherland, and Jon Bassindale. 23.12.99.

The Red Dwarf

Nanobots 17 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: On the left side of the main face (that faces camp) and left of ETGZ. 10m. Up to roof. Through the aforementioned roof, stepping left and up arete. The Cat, Kriton, Listy and Kjanski (spellings could be wrong). 26.11.99

Change of Plans, Leg it! 19 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: Right of ETGZ there is a crack behind the huge 'Gelf icon'. 10m. Up onto block, then left and up through bulge. Richard Smith, Jon Bassindale, 26.11.99

Space Corp Directive 703472A 6 10m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Involves a rubber chicken. Start: On the left side of The Red Dwarf that faces Cecilia is a crack. 10m. Up this, resisting the temptation to step right and go home. Instead swing up left and on. Curiously enough this is also the easiest descent from this block. Greg Pritchard, Deb Sweet, 26.11.99.

Minstrel Pinnacle

FANG BUTTRESS

** Ergonomics (26)
FA: Dave Jones 2005 Excellent long-overlooked addition that essentially is a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Powerful first half, to a delicate Arapilesian finish. Start as for Strolling RHV and climb this route through the bulge (past the 2nd bolt) then clip the 3rd bolt and head up the seam in the red streak (crux). (Strolling RHV heads left after the bulge and runs it out up to the original Strolling finish).

** Wagalak (29)
FA: Dave Jones 2005 Extreme line right of Ergonomics incorporating a hard boulder problem start (bolt) to the guano stained jug - then direct up the arete (2 bolts) via some dynamic moves to chain anchor.

Editor's note: The chain anchor of Wagalak is a retrobolt of Mandible, and marks the end of the traverse. At least it'll help your confidence as you tackle the arete above.

* Mandible 40m 19
Up Mantis for 15m to below roof. Hand traverse 7m L to arete (where there is now a chain), then steeply up arete. Double ropes. Small cams essential for traverse. Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth 17/4/04

Preying 36m 18
Possibly a repeat of Phillip McMillan and Rod Young's 1979 Mantis Variant Finish. Clarification welcome. As for Mandible, but halfway across the traverse, head straight up middle of wall above, and through the steepest part of the top bulge. There's some loose looking flakes - they all held a tug, but take care. Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth 17/4/04

BARD BUTTRESS

THE BLUFFS

Expired (30)*
Required into finish of Requited. Nathan Hoette, 2004

Final Departure Direct Finish*** (28)
Straightens out the top section of the original, making it much better. Zac Vertrees, 2004

Denim Wall

Berlin Calling (29)*
Nathan Hoette November 2004 Obvious line combining Balance of Power start (crux) into London Calling.

TIGER WALL

Tough Titties (23)
Start just right of Resignation 1st pitch (left of 'Is Vanja A Dog?'), then trend rightwards into the hanging groove via a hard boulder problem (wires then bolt). Further technical moves lead to easier ground and loweroff. FA Ingvar Lidman, November 2004

Bienerstisch (24)
Very good slab-like route just right of 'Is Vanya A Dog?' Ingvar Lidman, 2004

Shtarde Variant Start 15m 18
Some funky moves. Climb the seam left of Shtarde and continue up an easy blocky arête to a ledge and belay off a huge block. (Assumes that Shtarde starts up the vegetated seam just left of Vegetarian Delight) Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran. Early 2005

Shit Fuck, I Ate a Beef Burger!. Arhhh 120m 15
A vegetarian Delight! Start at large rock cairn halfway between Syrinx and Pan Grove. 1) 40m 15 Climb slabby weakness through bulge to ledge, continue straight up to big ledge. 2) 35m 13 Step R onto ridge, follow straight through bulge, passing weird holes 2 m to your L. Follow large flake to gain R hand of twin cracks to another bulge, pull this and belay on top. 3) 35m 13 Climb straight through 2 juggy bulges following obvious weaknesses. Continue up to gain ledge via yet another bulge. 4) Finish by climbing diagonally L to meet syrinx final pitch. Climb Syrinx final pitch. Shaun Kratzer and Derek (Des) Chadderton. Feb 2004

Broken Song 35m 21
Hard moves down low and glorious rock on the headwall. Could be done in one pitch but the cruxes are at the beginning and end. Start about 8m right of Greasy Burritos from a diagonal ramp. 1) 22m 21 Step out left from the ramp and climb past FH into seam and follow it until it eases. Belay on a small stance below steepening (there is a better stance 4m lower but the anchors are poor). 2) 13m 21 Move up and step left below the headwall. Rock up the headwall past 2FH on some of the finest stone anywhere to large ledge and rap anchor. Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman May 2006

Radish 150m 16
A long adventure on good rock, straight to the summit of the mount. 1. 30m Start up The Wobble but keep in the line (via hand crack through bulge) all the way to a good ledge on the right. 2. 30m Up wall to corner which leads to right side of prominent roof. Pass roof on right and continue past right edge of next roof. Bridge up line until a ledge appears on the left. 3. 30m Straight up line. Belay below long horizontal line of overhangs. 4. 20m Move left and up past left edge of overhangs to terrace. Up wall immediately left of trees to nice orange alcove. 5. 40m Up wall to long roofline on the left. Traverse 2.5 metres right at the roof and up past its right edge. Up easily, veer right, then up wall direct to summit block. Bridge up undercut corner on the left. First ascent: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman, varied leads, June 9, 2006.

THE BAT CAVE

The Hunchback of Natimuk (24)*
Takes the overhanging crack adjacent to 'Living With a Hernia'. FA: 'Strong' Wally

Living With a Hernia*** (30) 10m
Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette). All layaways and underclings - apart from 3 holds. Located at the top of Pan Grove, in the Bat Cave. Five minutes from the Disabled lookout, tracking along the cliff edge R (facing out). Just downhill from the bouldering area Islamabad. There is an easy descent to the left of the block (facing out). A big (10m) sling is handy for the belay/lower off. 3 bolts, clip the first with a stick and maybe use double ropes for the second clip. To the right is the crackline The Hunchback of Natimuk 24 (nice) and to the left is another crackline Roughing Minors 25 (not so). Douglas Hockly 2003

BIRDMAN PINNACLE

THE PHAROS

Uncle Charlie's

Break and Enter (29)***
Old Gordon Poulteney project put out of it's misery. Start as for The Great Escape, then take powerful right-hand line near arete. Nathan Hoette, 2004

Pharos North Face

Pharos (Back Wall)

PHAROS GULLY

Yesterday Gully

I get by 16 18m(courtesy arapiles.net)
Left side of wall, straight up to ledge Richard Smith, Greg Caire, Sir Michael Hampton, Matilda 14/5/2000

With a little help 16 18m(courtesy arapiles.net)
3m right of I Get By, takes line up from Left facing flake. Richard Smith, Greg Caire 14/5/200 (sic)

Fleagle 16 15m(courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: 4m right of Hypnosis. 15m Up nicest section of wall getting what gear you can. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins, Feb 00

Snorky 18 15m(courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: Above Nexus there is a wall with no routes (until now). It faces the Pharos. 15m Start in the middle of the wall. Head up rightish to small pod then back left above this and straight up to horizontal break. Take thin seam through headwall. Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, Richard Smith, Feb 00

Yesterday Left Hand Variant 26 30m(courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: As for Yesterday. 30m Up Yesterday to the crux, then trav left and up through little roof, past fixed wire. FRA Paul Hoskins, 1993.

Yesterday Double Direct** (28)
Obvious direct start to 'the direct start!' of Yesterday, combining three crux's. Excellent. Ingvar Lidman, 2001

WATCHTOWER FACES

Left Watchtower Face

Home Of The Brave
It would be safer and more enjoyable to extend the second pitch by 10 or 15 metres to Rotten Row. Kieran Loughran

The Watchtower

* Stumpy Tail 113m 23
Pitches 2 and 3 are both good, but the start of pitch 4 detracts. 1) 33m 12 Take Watchtower Crack, Pumping, or Flamingo to large ledge. 2) (20m 20) L up orange face past FH. Join diagonal crack to small ledge, then follow ramp to pedestal. Step up L onto short delicate face, then L to good belay cave on arete. 3) (10m 23) Up flake then over the L end of the roof. Traverse R past FH to big undercling move, then some steep moves to another good belay ledge on arete. 4) (50m 18) Step up R onto higher ledge, then the reachy lichenous face 3m L of Watchtower Crack, adequately protected by small-med cams. Slab easily up L until forced around the arete onto the Arachnus face for the last 20m. Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff 1.11.05

* Xenomorph (26) (grade to be confirmed)
FA: Ingvar Lidman 2006 Starts as for the 4th pitch of Watchtower Crack (piton belay). Climb the crack until level with the roof on the left, then launch out leftwards over the roof and up right-trending bolted line (3 bolts) in overhanging wall. Pull onto hanging slab via a very unlikely crux, and finish up this (cam) to top out on the summit of Arachnus. Accessible via either the first 3 pitches of Watchtower Crack, Arachnus-Minerva Variant, or rap in from top.

Right Watchtower Face

** Smeagol 110m 15
Great climbing all the way. One of the best and most varied climbs of its grade on the Watchtower Faces. 1. 45m Start up The Confession for 3-4m then verge left and up to tiny corner.Continue up left edge of the orange streak to a long right-facing flake/corner. Follow this to the big overhang which is turned on its right-hand edge. Once above the overhang, another corner leads direct to the left end of the Salamander ledge. Belay on the ring bolts as for Auto Da Fe. 2. 15m Up white streaks 2m left of the belay, over overlap, then right to chains. 3. 50m Climb Salamander's 4th pitch for about 4m to a good horizontal slot on the left wall. Traverse 2m left then climb direct up the black streak all the way to the top. Pull through summit overhang on the left. Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood. (alts) 6.3.04
Note 1: This climb has been about 30 years in the making, although the above ascent is the first in its entirety. Small parts of the first pitch have been done by people lost on The Confession or Salamander. Lockwood originally led the second pitch around about when he and Ed Neve put up The Confession in 1975 (before Skink Connection, Gollum etc went that way). Lockwood did the upper part of pitch three when he and Andrew Bowman put up Brolga.
Note 1a: (Oct 04) On pitch 3 it's best to traverse left as soon as possible - with the horizontal slot at head level. Any higher, and you miss the best climbing. Noddy.
Note 2: The Confession is marked incorrectly in Simey and Glenn's guide. It goes up the curvaceous white streak at 2/3 height, slightly right of where it is marked on page 230.
Note 3: Monitor would be a much better and more rewarding climb if it finished up Smeagol's 3rd pitch.

Omaha Beach 80m 18
1)30m 18 Start 10m Left of Panzer. Move up and right around broken bulge with marginal pro. Committing moves lead to easier ground. Move back L and straight up through weakness in undercut bulge. Belay as for Panzer. 2) 30m 16 Up Panzer's corner crack then traverse L following the flake. At the top of the flake go straight up and belay in V corner. 3) 20m 8 Scrabble to the top following crack up and L. FA: Yosef Murphy, Shaun Kratzer 4-4-5

NORTHERN GROUP

HENRY BOLTE GULLY

Gridlack* (32)
Nathan Hoette November 2004 The hardest route at Arapiles? Climb Gridlock to beyond its crux (itself 30), then continue straight up into Zorlac's crux. Hard for the grade.

INDUSTRIAL MUSCLE WALL

MYSTERIES WALL

MYSTERIES WALL GULLY

Honey Pot (29)
Frankenjura-like power route at the top-end of the Anus Horribilus Wall. 2 bolts. Nathan Hoette, 2004

Bottom Feeder* (26)
Powerful direct start to Anus Horribilus. Steve Kelly, 2004

Poo Connection*** (29)
One of the best routes of its grade at the Mount. Start as for Poosticks Direct Start then climb leftwards and finish as for Anus Horribilus. Nathan Hoette, 2004

Eeyore's Thistles 20m 17
Juggy slab route immediately right (around corner) of Poosticks. Andrew Martin, 2004
Kiearn Loughran reports: "Most everything about this was wrong except for the location. First, it's not called "The Honey Pot", Nathan grabbed that for his climb, and it's not 14 : try 16 or 17, and then there are very few jugs, most in the first five metres leading to a run-out before the first of two ring-bolts leads to a two ring anchor. I forgot to mention that the first bolt is way off route to the left and is clipped while leaning off poor handholds and facing a probable groundfall. Good route but. I've chatted to Andrew Martin about it and he agrees that the climb is much harder than 14 and disclaims any responsibility for the write-up. He agreed to look at whether another bolt was needed lower on the climb. Hopefully he'll give it a name as well and a proper write-up but for now call it Eeyore's Thistles 20m 17."

Mowhawkman (19)
Lefthand slab route on detached wall around the corner from Poosticks. Summit loweroff. Joel Wilson, 2004
Kieran Loughran reports: "This climb has two rings but a handful of cams are needed as well. Grade is probably fair"

Mohawk Hanky 14m 15
Good sustained climbing avoiding the hard bits of the other two climbs. Up Mohawkman to first ring (Clip the second ring if you have two ropes. With one rope you'll want a long draw or sling on the first ring.) and move up and right into Mr Hanky and up slab to lower-off. There's still a bit of moss around but the holds are clean. The ideal piece in virtually every cam placement was either a #1 Friend or a #2 Camalot (#3 Friend) so more than 1 each of those sizes are useful. There's no new climbing so I won't claim a first ascent.

Mr Hanky 12m 21
Righthand slab route with hard start on detached wall around the corner from Poosticks. Summit loweroff. Joel Wilson, 2004
Kieran Loughran reports: "Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades".

100 Acre Wood* (25)
Attractive orange streak at the very base of Mysteries Gully (downhill from Goats Song). Ultra technical face climbing past 3 bolts. Steve Kelly, 2004

Gardeners Delight
Apparently there is a rap anchor at the top of this. The rope hangs straight down to the start of the top pitch and I've seen people top-roping the line of the rope, directly up the wall between Gardener's Delight and Cundall's Arete.

KACHOONG AREA

Aachoo 22 15m
Start about 2m R of Kachoong. Up poorly protected wall (crux) and left to jug on arete. Back R into small corner and up steep jugs. I don't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start. Douglas Hockly, Gareth Llewellyn 2002

Hurts Wall

Constance Little 12m 14
Nice climb. I thought it had been done but can't find it anywhere. Faces the same way as Hurts, Max and Moritz but just one level below them. From Hurts, go out and drop down through the hole that leads down to Golden Echo DS. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut and step up left above it. Now move straight up the face to a bulge, step right and pull over the bulge and go up. Move right at the top to belay below Hurts. Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth. July 2005

The Nameless Gully

Between Lou and Stone Age there is an obvious large chimney in the middle of a sizeable wall. This line is Mermaid Avenue.

Mark Synnot reports: "The decription for Please don't talk to the lifeguard mentions a chimney. Looked more like a corner to me, anyway the next two routes are to the left of this chimney/corner. Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting."

The First Kiddy Climb 8m 8
1m left of the chimney/corner (Please don't talk to the lifeguard is a thin crack leading part way up the wall. Follow this until it peaters out and then straight up. Zoe Synnot, Mark Synnot, Jack Synnot and Pete Canning 4.6.05

Oompaloompa 8m 8
About 1m left of The first kiddy climb and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black. Up this and continue straight on. Jack Synnot, Mark Synnot, Zoe Synnot and Pete Canning 4.6.05

Please don't talk to the lifeguard 10m 17 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Not waving, drowning. Start at the left hand edge of the wall, below a smooth black slab. 2m right of chimney. 10m. Up slab. The gear is not good. Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 11.6.99

About a hedge-whore beggar woman pretending to be sick with Saint Fiacre's Disease, and a long thick gut made by trickery came out of her bum. 20m 10 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Don't blame me, blame Ambroise Pare. Start 5m left of chimney, right of low cave. 25m.Up awkward start then up face. Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 9.6.99

About a fat wench from Normandy, who pretended to have a snake in her belly 20m 6 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Hard to believe he was the father of modern surgery, isn't it? Start: On top of large boulder leaning against wall 2m left of Mermaid Avenue. 25m.Up face. Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 9.6.99

About a hedge-whore beggar woman pretending to be sick with Saint Fiacre's Disease, and a long thick gut made by trickery came out of her bum about a fat wench from Normandy, who pretended to have a snake in her belly connection. (courtesy arapiles.net)
Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 11.6.99

A Cure for Moby Dick 25m 14 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: At the base of Mermaid Avenue 25m. Up chimney for three metres and then swing left onto arete. Follow this to top. Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 20.10.99

Mermaid Avenue 25m 7 (courtesy arapiles.net)
An old fashioned line, or is that lane, as in bus? Start: At base of large obvious chimney. 25m. Good. Up the chimney, straying out on the right briefly. Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 14. 5. 99

The Police Gospel Quartet 25m 12 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start as for Mermaid Avenue. 25m. Step up and go out right to arete. Follow this to top. Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 11.6.99

Queequeg 20m 15
Seam between Mermaid Avenue and Narwhal Avenue. It's about 2m right of The Police Gospel Quartet arete. 1. 20m Swing desperately over rattly lip of cave; continue in line more pleasantly. Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning, August 27, 2005

Narwhal Avenue 20m 4 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: Right of Mermaid Avenue and before the arete of Manatee Fair there is a crack line up the wall. 20m. Up. Fun. Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 14. 5. 99

* Manatee Fair 20m 10 (courtesy arapiles.net)
The best of the lot. Start 5m right of Mermaid Avenue just left of arete. 20m. Up steeply then follow arete on left, finishing on arete. Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 11.6.99

Jonathon Livingstone Baitfish 20m 12 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Not very long and pretty unpalatable. Start in the chimney that Stone Age starts in. 15m. Climb up until it is possible to swing out onto left wall and climb this up to slab. Climb slab staying on right of arete. James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 11.6.99

Melville's Moby Dick, Ooh Er 15m 6 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: 2m right of Poles Apart at another line of cracks. 15m. Up. Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 14. 5. 99

Frog death 15m 4 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: 2m right of Melville's MDOE. 15m. Up. Greg Pritchard, James Falla, Sept 99.

Opposite this wall is another facing south. On it, an obvious line up the tallest part of the wall, Jon Muir found Because It's There.

Help Meet 15m 19 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Anything that does not kill you must make you stranger. Start: In the gully behind BIT at the right end of a small white wall beneath a large fallen tree. There is a line ending in mossy jugs. 10m. Up this. Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 20.10.99

The climb who shagged me 10m 18 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Does your pussy do the dog? Start: 8m up the hill from Because it's there at point where climbing looks possible. Below end of horizontal break that splits the cliff. 10m. Up, going slightly left onto block then back up right to seam. The up to top. James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 10.6.99

The Dwarves of Towyn 20m 17 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: On the next tall buttress down the gully is a wall with an obvious crack on the right. 20m. Up cracks then through 'interesting' headwall. Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 20.10.99

Just another crappy route from late last century 15m 16 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: On the next buttress down from The Dwarves of Towyn, in the middle of the south face, is an obvious shallow corner. Up this, curving left at top then up. James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 9.6.99

Around right of TDOT it is possible to scramble around into PB Gully and come out on the terrace next to Black Legend. The following two climbs are in the notch on a nice little wall which faces east.

The Lobster Princess 15m 16 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Harder than it looks. Start to left of wall, 1m right of arete. 1. 10m. Up following vague seam to top. 2. 5m. Up wall behind. Greg Pritchard and James Falla (alt), 9.6.99

Declan the Crab 15m 12 (courtesy arapiles.net)
No joke. Start on the right side of this wall. 1. 10m. Up wall. 2. 5m. Up next wall. James Falla and Greg Pritchard (alt), 9.6.99

Back south, and near and below Evelyn and Louise Wall is an obvious pinnacle. The next route takes the longest way up this, starting at the foot of a small crack on the east face.

Better Not Peak 15m 8 (courtesy arapiles.net)
15m. Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit. Greg Pritchard and James Falla, Sept. 99.

Slightly uphill:

Noodles Romanoff 45m 5 (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start. 5metres right of the start of Generation Gap, at the left arete. 45m. Follow arete all the way to top. Greg Pritchard and James Falla, Sept. 99.

THE FAR NORTHERN GROUP

Upper PB Gully - Lost World Wall

The Land That Time Forgot 35m 15
One of the remotest, most primeval parts of Arapiles. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telecom (Telstra! Ed.) tower - the big grey wall across the valley. Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of PB Gully. Down gully system to the main wall. Steeply into right-facing corner which is followed until a terrace appears up on the right. Don't be tempted. Instead, step left and up centre of wall, finishing over central overhang and headwall. Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Sept 4, 2005

Vandal Area

Where's Merilyn? 16
1 (16) 4m right of big silver rocket up mossy slab moving right to short crack. Up to rib. Climb this to steepness where move left on horizontals to belay ledge. 2 (10) Continue up to good horizontal. Traverse 5-6m left on good holds & good pro until you can step up easily. Continue up to good ledge with bolt. (vagabonds belay). 3 (17) step right adn continue up the end of sweet surrender. Mark Witham, Michael Hartman, Deb Churches 3/98

Lower Hum

Humbug 19 30m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: At the base of crack in corner. 30m. Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 29.10.99

*Infinity 16 30 (courtesy arapiles.net)
It's not 19 and it's not at Frog. Start: As for Humbug 30m. Up the crack swinging right into the corner when possible. Up corner to ledge then up wall above. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard.

*Cognitive Dissonance 21 30m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Pump-action. Worthwhile. Start: As for Affinity first pitch. 25m. Up short wall to ledge then climb up behind small conifer (middle of face-5m right of Affinity) to gain break through roofs. Through these and up. Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet, 27.10.99

Lower Curtain Wall

Intermission Wall

First Night Nerves 17 20m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: At the right side of the cliff at a little arching flake line. Up wall then deflect left at horizontal break. Now straight up to and over round bulge and forth. Keith Lockwood, Tim Lockwood, David Spike. 14.9.99

Lights, Camera, Action 18 25m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: At right-hand big dead pine tree. Up flake system, step left and up bulging wall. Step right and set about upper bulge via nascent vertical seam to a mossy end. Pat Ford, Keith Lockwood. 15.9.99

Cliche Wall

Walkabout Wall

Sidetrack 18m 17
Thin seam between Rocky Road and Hump The Bluey (Argus, August 2001).Where the seam thins down, climb wall on the left until the line can be regained.Onwards up line to top.Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning. 16.7.03

Werewolf Area

MITRE ROCK

North Face

Regarding Apocalyptic Simpleton Simpleton Fun Penis Shooter Shrug Woof Hello 18 25m (courtesy arapiles.net)
Start: 2m Left of Through the Dardanelles. 25m Climb up to roof which is tackled 2m left of TTD. Then straight up. Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Keiran Loughran, Paul Hoskins, Deb Sweet, James Falla, Jan Pritchard, Bryn Smith, Jon Bassindale, Salix, Sunday, December 12, 1999.

Apron Strings (24)
Bolted line on back wall of Mason's Apron. Short and powerful. Steve Kelly, 2004

THE WESTERN SIDE

CYCLOPS EYE CAVE

The Bolshevik Connection (28)
Desperate start, finishing as for Is Your Washroom Breeding Bolsheviks? Nathan Hoette, 2003

Christmas Walls

Three Wise Men 22m 5
Start 3m left of the right-side of the slab (with First Noel on it) at a broken crack in a very small left facing corner.Up the line finishing at a few blocks on the edge. Iain Sedgman, Ron Spence. 29.3.03

Miss All Toes 30m 6
Start as for The Atlantic Wall. Up the obvious crack for a few metres, step left and follow the main, slightly recessed line on the left side of the wall. Iain Sedgman, Ron Spence. 29.3.03

The Atlantic Wall 30m 15
About 100m right of The Grinch and near the right end of the cliff is a closed gully. About 4m from the back of the gully on the left wall. Up the crack and over the steepening. Up the wall and through the bulge. Iain Sedgman, Ron Spence. 29.3.03

Swingtime 18m 15
Start on the wall opposite The Atlantic Wall at a steep and slightly left-leaning line. Pull up into the line and up steeply, finishing left near the top. Peter Canning, Iain Sedgman, Keith Lockwood. 5.4.03

Robbie The Reindeer 20m 15
Start at Slay Rites. Climb the corner crack past the flake too an overhanging crack on the left and up. FA Rod Neil Rob Martin 12-Nov-2005

Myers Window 18m 15
Start as for Tinsel Town. Once gaining the ledge, move up and step left to gain the crack on the face and up. FA Rob Martin Rod Neil 12-Nov-05

Sutherland Shire

Dark Ages 12m 17
Left-hand corner in back of bay. Looks nice and straightforward, but the climbing is quite funky - if not prehistoric. Step right to complete the line at top of corner. Keith Lockwood, Iain Sedgman. 5.4.03

Rose-coloured Glasses 10m 16
Satisfying moves all the way. Would be well-trodden if it was beside Minimus. Reddish seam on left side of outcrop about 40m right of Dark Ages. Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning, Iain Sedgman. 5.4.03

Campbell's Kingdom

The routes here are made available on this site on an "as received" basis without any verification by the VCC. Thus, listed routes may have inaccurate details such as grade/length/location etc, or may be entirely fictional. If you have any information that clarifies or questions existing route descriptions, please send it in to the .

Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria.

ISKRA CRAG - DOLGORUKI WALL

AMNESTY WALL

The Good Fight 25
The dodgy wire placement that protected the crux (past the horizontal break) no longer exists. A bolt is now required to make the climb a safer prospect - Steve Chapman

Amnesia 25m 21
The route has been written up as 'Unnamed' 25m 21/23 by Matt Brooks. Dianne Fermio was in fact the first ascentionist of the Grade 17 part of the climb & also the Upper Grade 21 continuation on the right hand side of the pillar. Dianne Fermio October 2001

Amnesia L Variant 25m 23
Matt Brooks. October 2001

SANDINISTA WALL

Fading Fast is marked with a painted white square at the start.

WHITE WALL

The Misty Ridge 60m 17
A mountaineering romp up a major feature. Squeezed in between Sunset Boulevard and Pig Sticker. Pitch 1 15m 17 - Up Pig Sticker for 8m to base of wide left facing flake corner. Ignore this and step 2m right to steep left facing hand crack in corner. Up this for 7m to ledge and belay. Pitch 2 40m 10 ­ Step around right up jugs to huge slabby arête. Up this arête staying as close to the edge as possible for maximum exposure. The finish steepens slightly for full value. Walk off down via Echoes Block. Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker 2.7.2005

CUT LUNCH WALLS

Justin Thyme 20m 23
Needs a couple of bolts, climbed on pre-placed wires. Start 8m right of Salad Abuse. Cairn to reach flake then hard moves right. Up the corner then easy ground to Upper Cut Lunch Wall Ledge. Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman Sept. 04

Koalasquatsy Wall

Tranquilliser 20m 24 * [Mixed]
Long steep wall with burly start. Starts 7m right of Us Esoterics and 2m right of arête (Wheels of Steel). Boulder start up tiny corner (FH) to thin crux crack (FH). Wander up slabby jugs to blank bulge (FH) and onwards up steep juggy wall. Rap anchor. Full rack required including small wires. Neil Monteith & Mike File 21-08-2005

** Wheels Of Steel 18m 26 [sport]
Stunning prominent orange arête that was strangely ignored by previous climbers. The prow with the undercut start 5m right of Us Esoterics. Start on ledge as for Us Esoterics. Leap for jug, cut loose out right to arête. Bouldery moves up this on delightful dishes leads to easier climbing before final pumpy bulge. 7 bolts and double ring lower-off. Was originally led on two bolts but sense prevailed and now it¹s a very pleasant outing. FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 13.5.2006

* Candy Haze 25m 25 [Mixed]
Varied wall climbing with a tough gritty finish. Up Koalaquatsy for 5m (wires). Lean right to clip u-bolt on rooflet. Out right then up pumpy flake, step left into heucos then over roof to final tricky headwall. 6 UBs and lower-off. FFA Kent Paterson 03-06-2006

Dry Spell 15m 20* [mixed]
Drought conditions only! The black gritty water streak 2m left of Koalasquasty. Highball (or optional small wires) to first BR, then layaway and stem up the subtle line past another two BRs. #1 SLCD in horizontal for finish mantle move onto belay ledge. Rap off slings. Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 08-04-2006

* Forever Young 15m 23 [Sport]
Expect some big whips! A mystery single rusty bolt has been on this route for many years but remained un-claimed. It is now a sport route with an exciting finish. Starts about 2m right of Ooh Ooh Ahh Ahh at slab. Boulder up to first bolt, pump through horizontals then undercling up to shallow pockets and right facing flake. Now, launch for the top ledge! 4 UBs and lower-off. FFA Neil Monteith 11-06-2006

TRIBUTE GULLY

Lines N' Noses 10m 18 * [Sport]
Fun little jug fest and the best warm-up in the area. Starts 1.5m left of In Halen at left edge of main wall. Boulder the start, then straight up the sustained subtle arête. Four u-bolts. Lower off anchor above In Halen. Neil Monteith & Will Monks 31-07-2005

* In Halen 13m 18
At the left end of this wall is a featured grey face which is a tiny bit overhung. Look up about 8m and spot the ringbolts. The first half is trad - and takes good big and small wires in obvious slots. Double rap rings on top. The route is a very good warm-up being pumpy with no sharp holds. FFA Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin April 2004

We felt that In Halen was solid at grade 18, once you got about 2 - 3m off the ground! The first moves were very bouldery and harder than grade 18. The rest of the route was as described. Trad gear was good and pretty obvious. There seems to be a general reluctance to grade a route harder if the crux is leaving the ground. But that's a separate issue. Michael O'Reilly

Pic: Ross Timms (a.k.a. Peter Garrett) "dancing" on Midnight Soiled. Pic by Michael O'Reilly

Midnight Soiled 14m 22 [sport]
Start in the 'green', 3m left of By Jovi, directly below orange jug and very large pocket. Climb straight up for 6m until holds disappear. Make an unexpected, very large move to the right and up (crux), to a poor crimp and then good holds. Pumpy traverse left for 2 metres. Continue straight up to top. This route has been entirely retro-bolted (5 UBs) to fit into the theme of other routes on this wall. The route now finishes direct to the anchors above By Jovi. Permission was gained from first ascent party. The route is certainly worth at least one star. Michael O'Reilly, Ross Timms, Steve Chapman and Peter Garrett. 12-6-04

* By Jovi 14m 23 (sport route)
Starts 5m right of In Halen. Central line of ringbolts up "turtle shell" featured wall. Fingery and sustained climbing with nigh all rests. Mantle at the top is somewhat exciting. Double rap rings on top. FFA Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson & Jono Schimdt April 2004

We can confirm both the grade and the quality of By Jovi. The better holds were very difficult to distinguish from the small sloping crap holds, due to the nature of the grey rock. We couldn't find the 'somewhat exciting mantle' at the end of the climb. In actual fact, the final holds (for the moves onto the ledge) were the biggest on the whole route! A recommended route up a nice piece of rock. Michael O'Reilly

* Jet 14m 23/24
Starts 3m right of By Jovi in front of small pine tree. Less sustained but cruxier than By Jovi. Thin crimping up a slightly overhung wall. Three RB¹s then jugs and bomber wire slots to finish. FFA Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Kent Paterson 29.5.2004

UPPER TRIBUTE GULLY

* Back Stabbath 17m 21
Featured steep wall climbing. Central line starting on large chockstone. Belay off single u-bolt. Slight left trending route with a bouldery middle section on slopey holds. Four u-bolts and clip-and-go loweroff anchor. Bring a small trad rack of medium wires and hand/fist sized cams. FFA Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Hiedi Macklin 26.2.2005

BAD MOON RISING WALL

All routes on the left side of the wall have natural belays, with descent provided by a 22m abseil off DRB 8m R of Bitten Finger.

This wall resides at Hollow Mountain, Grampians, Victoria. These are the slabby streaked walls between Tribute Wall and Van Dieman's Land. The routes and rock quality resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right side is home to several nice sport routes and the left has some of the best easy jug fests in the Grampians. Surprisingly the harder routes were all but ignored for many years until this guide was being written.

A few weekends and the area sprung from only two easy routes to quite a collection of nice climbs. Descent from the left side trad routes can be made via the double ring-bolts located on the ledge above Revenge Of The Chicken. Cliff faces into the sun most of the day.

Location: Walk through the Tribute Walls ravine, scramble down via worn tree to large open rocky platform. The cliff to the west (right) is Bad Moon Rising Wall. If you continue along this rocky platform for 80m you will end up in the Van Dieman's Land Amphitheatre. Routes described right to left.

1: Raunchy Rooster 18m 22* [Sport]
Another good sport route. Surprisingly easy if you can crimp hard. Furthest right most bolted route near the entrance of the chasm. Four UB's and a FH. Second bolt is a scary clip. Lower-off using anchors above Rage And Ruin. Mike File 2005-07-23

2: Rage And Ruin 18m 23* [Sport]
Nice face climbing with a pumpy surprise finish. Located on far right side of wall at rightwards arching undercling flake. Layback up flake to start for 2m, then blast straight up the thin face above to horizontal. Up slightly right on orange streak to last bolt. Fight directly up to top. Six u-bolts and double RB lower-off. Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Mike File 2005-07-03

3: All the Way to Eleven 18m 22* [Sport]
Start as for, and clip first two bolts on, Rage And Ruin. Step down and head diagonally left across the black streak & up the orange headwall past a further 3 U's and a FH (6 bolts in total). Needs a lower off anchor. James Pfrunder, Jackie Bernardi and a cast of thousands 2005-07-31

4: Black Streak Project 20m 0 [Trad]
Adam Demmert has his eye on this line. Might go at grade 24+

5: Chicken Head Hunter 25m 23** [Sport]
Elegant face route in a similar vein to Diazepam. Very thin start which eases considerably at the halfway point. At least six bolts and a double U-bolt lower off. Adam Demmert & James Pfrunder 2005-07

6: Revenge Of The Chickens 25m 24** [Sport]
The best route on this cliff. Start as for Chicken Head Hunter. Up this to bolt three, then step left and follow line of UB's up the increasingly pumpy and difficult wall to runout finish. Double UB lower-off. Adam Demmert, Malcolm Matheson & Neil Monteith 2005-07-20

7: Bitten Finger 22m 17 [Mixed]
The first features left of the central blank section of the wall are two parallel orange overlaps. Climb the overlaps with pro on the left, to the crux bulge (BR). Follow the holds and gear up the slab above, staying just left of a small water groove. Takes wires, small-med cams and a bolt plate. Will Monks & Ben Cirulis.

8: Headless Chickens 22m 15 [Trad]
2m L of Bitten Fingers. Easily up orange patch to bulge, which is breached via a small crack/weakness with great gear and buckets. Headless chickenheads keep the slab above interesting. Take wires & small-med cams. Ben Cirulis & Will Monks.

9: Octohexarian 27m 8 [Trad]
The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards. Starts about 10m right of Bad Moon Rising and 4m left of Headless Chickens. Unknown 1980's

10: Bite The Hand 23m 11* [Trad]
Direct line up juggy gritty slab. Starts 6m right of Bad Moon Rising below light grey streak which ends at same finish as BMR. Up left side of grey streak to delightful short right facing thin flake at 1/3 height. Continue up on jugs to top. Descend via double u-bolts above Revenge Of The Chickens Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker 2005-07-02

11: Bad Moon Rising 30m 14 [Trad]
The landmark right facing leaning corner on the left side of the wall. The line looks good but the rock quality is fairly suss in many places. Bring a full rack. James McIntosh & Melanie Taws 1986-11-08

12: Puddlejugs 20m 17 [Trad]
The prominent arete left of the Bad Moon Rising corner. Climb the Bad Moon Rising corner for 5m, moving left onto the pedestal. Continue up the overhung face moving left around the arête, and follow the right-hand crack to the top. Ben Cirulis & Jo Hugman 2005-07-31.

VAN DIEMAN'S LAND

* Happiness in Magazines 20m 25 [Sport]
Brilliant pumper. First 6 bolts of The Brian Jonestown Massacre then traverse left on pockets past 2 bolts to join up with the pumpy finish of My Bloody Valentine. 9 bolts. FFA Kent Paterson 03-06-2006

Sonic Youth 30m 24 ** [sport]
A mega link-up of the pocketed wall from Terminal Insomnia all the way across to finish up Sisters Of Mercy. FFA Kent Paterson & Alister Roberston 10.6.2006

STAPYLTON AMPHITHEATRE - CLOUD CUCKOO LAND

What The Dormouse Said 12m 15
Nice moves. Sport route. The next route left of Heat Haze, past 3 bolts, moving slighlty right past second bolt, to rap anchor on ledge below crud rock. Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman March 2006.

Grace Slick 12m 20
I was going to grade it by the second-hardest move but have guessed at this. We both took a few goes on top-rope to work out the last moves but it's probably easier now it's cleaned. Sport route. The route left of What The Dormouse Said, 3 bolts to rap anchor. Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman April 2006

White Rabbit 12m 11
Lovely corner that's harder than it looks. The corner marking the left edge of the slab is really nice and will clean up to be a good climb. Belay on the large ledge on the left. Ray Lassman, Kieran Loughran April 2006.

STAPYLTON AMPHITHEATRE - NORTHERN WALLS

Plastic People 47m 19
Was almost going to call it YACSAFT (yet another climb starting as for Trident) but that would be silly. Mostly quite easy but the last pitch is very good. The second and third pitches should be combined but someone was being a wimp. 1. 20m Start as for Trident to the traverse. Traverse left and for Trident but continue left around the arete and belay as far left as you can on a small stance on the lip of the overhang (this pitch is as for pitch 1 of It's My Brain Again) 2. 15m Rising traverse left into the base of the corner marking the left side of the steep wall. Easily up the corner to a commodious ledge on the left below the ovehang. 3. 12m (crux) Pull through the overhang in the left of two lines almost immediately above and continue up to rap-anchor. Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran (alt) and Ray Lassman February 2006

STAPYLTON AMPHITHEATRE - CENTRAL BUTTRESS

TAIPAN WALL

* Posy 28m 23
A selection of the various flowers, and adds some nice poses of its own. Defies the left-leaning nature of all the other routes here. Start on the big boulder between Atomic Tadpole and Tokyo Rose (Tokyo Connection). Trend R up the easy but only adequately protected slab (pro is on the R). Cross Tokyo Rose and join Ukrainian Geranium, which is followed for 8m over bulges to the start of the upper slab. Arrange pro, traverse 3m R to FH, then up grey streak to break. Move R to join Sordid Orchids Direct past it's final 2 FHs, to rap anchor (28m). Full set of cams and wires, and several long draws (or double ropes). Will Monks, Mike File 1.10.05

** Ukrainian Geranium 45m 20
Start 2m R of Tokyo Rose (Tokyo Connection), and 2m L of Sordid Orchids. 1) (25m 20) Thin orange corner then diagonally up L with feet dropping into TR for a move or two. Steeply over bulge and up the short orange flake on the R to gain slab. SHB below white bulge. 2) (20m 20) Move R over white bulge to ledge. Leftward arcing thin orange corner to the intermittent crack 4m R of Atomic Tadpole's finish. Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff (alt), Joe Goding 11/9/04

Pic: Will Monks on the first ascent of Ukrainian Geranium (20), Photo by Kevin Lindorff

** Sordid Orchids Direct 28m 26
Extends the first pitch of Sordid Orchids by 12m and adds three bolts. Sustained wall climbing with crimpers and reach moves. Climbs more like a Blue Mtns wall climb rather than a Taipan steep sloper fest. Climb SO to horizontal break after last RB. Instead of traversing off right head straight up wall above (FH), step left (#2 camalot) and then up again (2 FH's). At large slopey rail step right into SO pitch 2 and climb this for 2m to a single U-bolt loweroff (60m rope only!). Above this U-bolt is the aid move on SO pitch 2. It still looks impossible! FFA Neil Monteith & Will Monks 26.1.2005

* Dance of Life Dinosaurs Don't Dyno Connection 40m 23 M1
Takes in some great climbing and avoids the crux of both routes. 1) (25m 23M1) Up DoL to the major break 10m below the top, step R to comfy belay off bollards and large cams. 2) (15m 20) Traverse L along the break, cross Clean Sweep, and join DDD at good stance on the arete. Up the short slab and groove finish of DDD. Will Monks, James Pfrunder, Kevin Lindorff 25/9/04

* The Mint 42m 21
Start at the R end of the elevated ledge at the base of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, but belay on wide ledge 6m below to see crux. 1) (32m 21) From elevated ledge, step down to hand traverse R under large roof, cross Great Divide and continue traversing R to Seventh Banana first anchor. 2) (10m 17) Continue traversing R to Sirocco first anchor. Rap off. Full set of cams. Has also been done by starting up the unpleasant flakes 10m L of Great Divide leading to the largest part of the roof (10m longer, not recommended). Pitch 2 can probably be reversed at the same grade by those wanting more after Sirocco's first pitch (or those who don't like Sirocco's sling anchor!). Will Monks, Mark Rewi (alt), Neil Monteith 15/1/05

** Divided Years 16m 25
Steep scoopy 'World Party' start then thin technical finish. Well protected and convenient for climbers who end up on the ledge above the left end of Taipan. This route is a rap in and climb out affair between The Great Divide and Daedalus. Locate double rap rings on ledge about 10m south of the Dance Of Life rap chains. Rap down wall aiming for double ring belay at right end of horizontal break. You will need to be pushing off and swinging in to reach this anchor ­ the wall is steep! Traverse left across horizontal (FH), then up into water funnel scoop (two FHs) to small cave. Out right side of this cave on crimpers past final FH to juggy gritty finish. #3 SLCD and a few medium wires are all that is required in the trad department. FFA Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson & Hannah Lockie 4.12.2005

** Seventh Pillar Right Hand Variant 14m 21
Sustained moves in a fantastic position. Start at the original 2nd belay of Seventh Pillar (i.e. at the guano-stained stance halfway up the 2nd pitch as now described). Extend high pro in the original, then traverse 3m R to incipient flakes. Up past 2 FH and straight up grey streak (med wire). Step L to belay as for the original. Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff 9/10/04

*Snake Flake Direct Start 25m 26
Adds a good independent direct start to this route. Up slabby flake for 6m as for Invisible Fist. Traverse left under roof and over roof flake (FH) with tricky mantle move over lip. Extend runners to avoid rope drag. FFA Malcolm Matheson, Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middleton. 25.5.03

*** Fisting Party 50m 26 [sport]
A link-up of The Invisible Fist into the top two pitches of World Party. One of the greatest single pitches in the universe for anyone with the stamina. Almost a sport route (15 bolts) ­ with only two medium wires being optional on the entire route. Climb Invisible Fist to the 2nd last ring, then step right (new FH) into the slopey rightwards traverse of World Party pitch 2. Finish up pitch three of World Party - the 'best 24 in the country'. Neil Monteith 4.3.2006 (split into two pitches)

* Constrictor 18m 21
Squeezed in-between pitch one of World Party and Anaconda. Starts 3m right of World Party and just left of small bush growing out of horizontal crack. Boulder up tenuously onto orange slab and good pocket (FH). Step left slightly and climb slopers directly to re-join World Party at large horizontal. Traverse right across this for four metres to short vertical flake. Arrange pro and balance up flake onto slab (FH). Finish up slopers (FH) and over final committing bulge to ledge. Rap chain. FFA Neil Monteith 8.11.2004

SPURT WALL

THE PLAZA STRIP

BULLANT WALL

Nipper 15m 13
The left-hand, curving line on Bullant Wall. The finish is a bit of a surprise. Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, Tim Lockwood. 5.7.03

*Sting 15m 20
Nice laybacky flakes up bulging wall 3m right of Nipper. Could be a soft touch for the grade, but it's a bit pumpy for a lingering leader. Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth. 5.7.03

THE GUARDHOUSE, MT STAPYLTON CAMPGROUND

*Little George 14m 23
Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. Double RB lower off. Jacqui Middleton, Neil Monteith. 25.4.03

Ranger Danger 14m 24
Weaves around black streak on far right side of crag. Bouldery start (stick clip ring), up slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to hidden RB and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs.Five RBs and DRB lower-off.FFA Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson. 14.6.03

** Line Of Sight 15m 23 [sport]
Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall about 8m left of Little George. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall (optional large wires to avoid mild runout). 5 UB and double UB lower-off. FFA Neil Monteith 7.5.2006

SENTINEL CAVE, MT STAPYLTON CAMPGROUND

Antics 15m 26
Climbs the biggest section of the roof in true HB style.Five metres of solid ceiling thuggery.Follow Army Of Ants to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge.Climb left leading roof flakes directly above the ledge past 4 FHs to lip.Back climb to clean.No anchor.FFA Malcolm Matheson, Jacqui Middleton. 24.05.03

Makybe Diva 7m 25 (sport route)
A direct start to Antics. Starts 3m left of Army of Ants. Steep bulgy wall in true Nowra style. Three FH¹s. Either lower off first bolt on Antics or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish. FFA Neil Monteith 11.12.2004

**Media Puzzle Special Addition 21m 23
As for Media Puzzle, however, once at the double bolts, monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m pass 2 BRs then up the chains (crux ) to finish. Peter Daish, Damian Hall, 15.11.2003. It's easier to "back fall" to the double bolts on Media Puzzle than to "lower off & clean".

Far Lap 25m 23 [Mixed]
An airy and bold girdle traverse of the main cave. Climb Media Puzzle to fifth RB then traverse rightwards across obvious horizontal break (minimal pro) to belay on large ledge below Antics' roof. An 8m section of this traverse is totally un-protected and is serious groundfall potential (grade 20). Lower off fixed screwgate on first bolt of Antics. FFA Gareth Llewelin, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith 17.9.2005

* Screaming Barfies 11m 22 [sport]
An easier version of the crag classic Steeping On Snakes. Squeezed in between Dwarf Pumper and the latter ­ then finish as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts. FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 7.5.2006

SENTINEL WALL

Know Your Signals 14m 15
Start 4m right of dirty roof hand crack and right of Tatiana. Follow weakness through thin start to under roof. Watch for loose rock. Traverse left 2m and finish at tree belay. Phil Neville, Michael Schedlberger, Joe Morgan-Payler. 18.4.03

WARDEN WALL, STAPYLTON CAMPGROUND

[1] Crimps of Doom 10m 17
Face round corner and 1m left of Rohans Route, a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top. Joe Morgan-Payler. 25.10.03

[2] Rohans Route 10m 17
A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top. Rohan Archibald. Solo. 25.10.03

[3] My Bitch Bubba 10m 18
Same start as for Gormet, only stepping onto thin face after reaching first block, then following the break on left-hand side of face. Tuan Le. 25.10.03

[4] Gormet 10m 14
(Gourmet?) Nice climbing up an attractive line. Follow orange corner to top. Hanh Le. 25.10.03

[5] Photographers Solo 10m 8
Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

MOUNT STAPYLTON CAMPSITE AREA - MOUNT PLEASANT

Homebrew 9m 14
Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of Lovedale. Ben Wright, Peter Kello, William Swinson. 17.4.05

If You're Short, We Can Help 8m 17
Step off boulder 5m right of Homebrew, good moves up orange wall. Ben Wright, Peter Kello. 17.4.05

CAVE OF GHOSTS CLIFFS

Lamington 10m 15
Climb up left edge of smooth grey wall on the west side (approximately 4m from north arête) through left end of overhangs to finish via right hand of two cracks.Ben Wright, Nicky Eustace. 13.12.03

Vanila Slice 12m 18
Start in middle of west side and climb up slab and through weakness of main overhang (using hold up right) and finish through projecting shelf at top.Ben Wright, Nicky Eustace. 13.12.03

Rock Cookie 12m 13
Start at Ghoulies on the west side (1½m from the south arête) but move to the right through the middle and top bulges.Jack Lewis, Ben Wright.13. 12.03

Mince Pie 12m 19
Climb up just right of south arête to thin crack.Ben Wright. 25.12.03

Piece of Cake 7m 10
Crack on wall on east side approximately 4m left of north arête.Nicky Eustace, Richard Eustace.13. 12.03

Turkey Sandwich 25m 14
Circumnavigate the outcrop starting up Automatic Runway and following the break at mid-height going anticlockwise to the south arête (belay possible here) and continuing around to the start.Going clockwise looks feasible too and may be better.Ben Wright.Solo. 25.12.03

North, and approximately 45m directly uphill through boulders and scrub is a wall about 18m high containing the climb Spirit In The Sky 18m 8.This is situated 12m right of the large cave and was also established by Welsby and Mibus and is also marked by a crude white square 3½m above the ground. Warden Wall (100m to the south) was also climbed on and it was felt that My Bitch Bubba should be down graded from 18 to 17 (harder for shorter climbers), and that Gormet (not Gourmet?) should be down graded from 14 to13. Another short (but good) route was established on the parallel wall set back a few metres on the right (south) side.

Jump Gimli! 7m 14
Climb straight up from slight scoop in the wall 2m from right-hand end.Short climbers will need to use dynamic technique.Jack Lewis, Simon Punt, Cameron Barrett. 13.12.03

SENTRY WALL

Climbs are described from left to right

The First Post 12 m 9
5 metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. Escape off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top. Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons 24-4-2005

Sentry Arete 12m 5
The right hand rib of the chimney. Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons 24-4-2005

Aware 12m 16
3 metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top. Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford 24-4-2005

Cold at Dawn 12 m 15
5 metres right of Aware The steep right facing flake crack. Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford 24-4-2005

Topple Tor 15m 15
Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep SW arête. Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford 24-4-2005

Sentry Line 15m 12
On the Eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from Aware. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow , left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang. Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford 24-4-2005

THE UNNAMED CLIFF

Joe has also provided this topo for free download (120 kB).

This cliff has a number of worthwhile climbs and isn't quite as remote as its neighbours. It is a fairly long crag and as access is at the left-hand end and the descent is at the right-hand end it can seem a long walk in climbing booties. Take Tevas! There has been some recent development of a small face at the left end, including abseil stations, and some routes in the 22 department. Rock quality of this wall (Energise your soul wall) is generally excellent orange/grey sandstone. The rest of the cliff varies greatly, with large sections of choss, some very appealing lines. The descent off some routes looks epic, beware. Route finding to date has been hard due to lack of any decent topo maps. Please treat this upate with caution as many of the existing routes have not been added to the topos as the editor was not sure where they went. I hope the routes that I have indicated (which I am sure of) are useful to find your way around this crag. Possibility for new routes is great. Joe Goding 12th July 2004.

Map Details See Northern Grampians (VICMAP). 1:50,000. The new track (as described in text) hits the cliff at approx 075 230 Also see "Mount Stapylton" 1:25,000 (VICMAP)

Suggested Campsites 1)Troopers Creek (Further) or 2)Mt Stapylton (Easier & closer).

Access This crag is basically found near the south-east corner of the Toscana olives fenceline (there is a reasonable road on the south end of this. The road on the east boundary should only be undertaken by large (i.e. Hi-Lux or Land Cruiser) 4WD with decent clearance. 1) From the Troopers Creek campsite, head along Rose's Gap Road (towards Wartook) for 5km to Smith Road, (at 009 241) turn right onto this and follow it until it heads west (at GR 063 028) turn north onto Winfield Road. One kilometre along Winfield Road there is a vehicle track on the right(Cameron's Road), follow this (along the south, fenced border of Toscana Olives) for about 1½km until it peters out and turns north. Park here and head off roughly following an old vehicle track (that has had lots of trees felled across it). The start of the track can be a bit hard to find. You will hopefully find the trail which is just slightly higher than the old vehicle track most of the way, and joins it from time to time. You might catch the odd bit of yellow tape on a branch. After about 500m you come to a more open area, sloping down into the creek. Head left just before the creek, cross it after around 80m and follow it up and left (Cairned) until it heads steeply uphill to the base of Energise your soul route. *The old track took another route slightly to the south but the track was re-made in order to reduce erosion as the old track was not well cairned and went mainly over loose ground. Routes described from left to right across the cliff.
2) From the new Mt Stapylton campsite, head west on Plantation Road, turn south onto Windfield Road. Follow this until you reach the south end of Toscana Olives. As for Access description 1).

Cliff Faces North west. A good winter cliff. Be a little careful of wind on the left end of the cliff as it can get pretty full on and tie up your ropes amongst the chicken heads! Time from Car: 20 - 25 minutes.

Descent - The top of this cliff has a number of mini-canyons running back from the cliff edge, especially at the left hand end, because of this, descent is definitely easier via the gully towards the right-hand end of the cliff. This gully is readily located by a couple of large cairns, the highest of which indicates the start of the gully. Down in the gully there is an option, either an "Organ Pipes (at Arapiles) descent gully" type hole, or the buttress on its left (facing out). Of the two options the buttress is slightly easier. If going down the hole, move out right (facing the cliff) at the bottom; if taking the buttress option, move left (facing the cliff) towards the bottom of the "hole" option and down climb the bottom part of the buttress to a good ledge. Traverse this to the right and drop down to ground level and walk out through the scrub for 10 - 15 metres to where it thins out and back to the base of the climbs. All of the above sounds complex but it should gel when you are actually there. It is also possible to get down the left hand end of the cliff but it would probably require a few trips to become familiar with all the ins and outs of the maze. At the left-hand end of the cliff is a descent gully; at the bottom of this gully is a small face. Non Event starts at the overlap in the centre of this face.

*Dave Cebar Route 1 24 22m
Start on dark left arête of grey/black wall in decent gully. Up crack to small ledge at approx 4-5m. Move right onto face, straight up face until approx 8m before top, tending left at the end. Low on pro at around 7-16mish. Good gear to start, but pretty full on moves and little really good gear in middle. FA David Cebar (onsite ground up ascent), Joe Goding, Jacqui Middleton. Winter 2002 with frozen feet.

(-3 stars) Dave Cebar Route 2: Dancing Dave and his technicolour coat of choss 25m G19
Was this called "Dancing Dave and his Technicolor coat of choss"? If not it should have been. Struggle up the corner into wide bridging moves. Little pro. Poor moves. Unmemorable. Would not recommend repeat. left into middle of face and up to top. Move left (west) to find DBB/Rap. approx 25m to ledge, maybe 40m to lower gully. FA David Cebar, Joe Goding. Winter 2002?

Gooseneck 25m 16
Start 5m left of Why.Com at the right facing corner (the left of facing corners) with a block at 8m. Up corner to ledge. Past a gooseneck and into the next corner and up. Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith. 27.2.00

Why.Com 40m 15
Start on the buttress on the other side of the gully opposite and 25m left of Alias at a small cave. Step right onto the undercut face and diagonally right to a bushy ledge. Up slightly left to an enormous ledge. Continue left to corner and steep brittle crack above. Graeme Smith, Glen Donohue. 27.2.00

e-climb.com 20m 19
Start 7m right of Alias. Up right leading ramp then up face to steep crack at top. Leader avoided first crux at top of ramp by stepping into easy ground on right. Graeme Smith, Glen Donohue. 27.2.00

Moss Games: 24m 19
start in middle of slab up and left of Energise your soul wall . Up and right to ledge, tending left slightly into upper face to join left leaning crack at end. Loose finish when pulling onto top. Beware. Scoot off left at large ledge. Search for DBB (2 recessed rings) in gully below dark grey/black wall. Rap 10m to ground/lower gully. FA Mark Rewi, Joe Goding Date? May 2004

*The Phantom Cocky Killer Of Trooper's Creek Arms 16m 18
On left end of large attractive orange face (lowest point of main cliff where the track meets the cliff). Arête on left-hand end moving slightly left at ledge through crack to large ledge. Double glue in G304 stainless 10mm x 90mm bolts and gold FIXE Chain abseil. Joe Goding, Shane Hurt.

Will's Lament: 14m 22
Start as for The Phantom Cocky Killer of Troopers Creek Arms but go straight up and don't tend left at ledge. Past FH and steep moves to ledge. DBB Rap 15m to ground. FA Mark Rewi, Joe Goding. May 2004.

** Deep Blue: 30m 22
Start as for The Phantom Cocky Killer of Troopers Creek Arms, move right as 2m on good pockets, straight up to "Brain" rock sticking out (4-5m) crucifix move to good pocket in right leading horizontal (FH) further right on thin holds and small footledge to good ledge (belay possible - but beware of falling leader off the top of this pitch! Directly above). Up wall as for Energise Your Soul past FH and into crack, left to ledge, DBB and rap 15m to ground.

** Energise Your Soul 19/22 35m.
Central line on overhanging 'Arapilesian' looking wall. Can be done as one pitch. 1st pitch - GR 19 20m. Start up below black groove/crack. Up and into crack (crux) for a few metres to first horizontal break. Traverse left to juggy corner, take care with rock, up and onto good ledge below obvious closed corner to belay to reduce rope drag. 2nd pitch - GR. 22 15m Up closed right facing corner above, past FH (crux), exciting moves up and left to belay ledge and rap chain. FA Stephen Holloway, Amanda Cole 3/27/2004

** Gifted 27m 23
Direct, sustained and well protected. At the L (NW) end of The Un-named Cliff is a compact orange wall facing NW(Energise your soul wall), overlooking the major gully. Up past recent rock scars to horizontal break (@3m), follow short wide black crack on right of this, then trend slightly R up wall for 15m to join a short wide crack 1m L of the arête, swing right onto the arête, then juggy short slab for about 8m. Rap chain (25m to ground). FA Will Monks, James Pfrunder, Joe Goding. 26 June 2004

(The conifer referred to in Three Men In A Boat is dead, burned in the 1999 fire. The fire came down the gully at the left end of the cliff.)

BORDEL BUTTRESS

COPPERMINE TRACK CLIFF

Small Change 10m 15
Pleasant. At the right-hand end of the main cliff is a short wall with 2 crack lines. The right-hand crack. Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox. 22.2.03

Bad Penny 10m 18
The left-hand crack. A bit fierce. Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox. 22.2.03

Coprolites 20m 13
40m left of Bad Penny there is a break in the overhangs with 2 corner lines about 6m apart. The right one. Cairned. Mossy crack and short corner to roof, step left, up to next roof, step left (suspect rock) and up to ledge. Walk off right. Philip Armstrong, Chris Armstrong. 16.2.03

Ok Tedi 30m 14
Gains the corner 6m left of Copralites. 1. 20m Up easy wall to large ledge then steeply into corner, up this, move onto right wall towards the top and exit to ledge on right. 2. 10m Up to roof, traverse 4m right and pull through break. Philip Armstrong, Chris Armstrong. 16.2.03

Bent Copper 35m 14
About 40m left of Ok Tedi locate a short clean-cut right facing corner about 15m up the cliff. Start in the bushy chimney/gully below this. Cairned. 1. 25m Head out right to avoid the vegetation then back left to the foot of the corner, good climbing up this to large ledge. 2. 10m Up slab to overhang, mantle excitingly through this 2m left of the dead tree. Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox. 1.2.03

Amungme 35m 10
15-20m left of Bent Copper (before you get to the big chimney line). Climb the juggy crack line through a number of bulges, then the nice wall and easy angled ground above. Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox. 22.2.03

Bronze Age 30m 16
1. 20m The big crack/chimney line at the left-hand end of the main cliff, just left of Amungme. Good holds and runners on the right wall. Belay at the big chockstone. 2. 10m (Crux) Traverse left across the wall below the roof to the arete. Step left and up. Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong. (alt) 8.6.03

The routes here are made available on this site on an "as received" basis without any verification by the VCC. Thus, listed routes may have inaccurate details such as grade/length/location etc, or may be entirely fictional. If you have any information that clarifies or questions existing route descriptions, please send it in to .

Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria.

TROOPERS CREEK CLIFF

MOUNT DIFFICULT

Top Access 30m (approx) 18 (approx)
Access to the top off the ledge above He Who Walks through Shallow Water and Gale Force. From DBB/Chains move left along large ledge to obvious crack around 2-3m from far left-hand end. Up this with difficulty to very easy ground above. DBB/Chains same setup as lower chains except these ones are installed with double expansion 110mm M10 G316 Stainless FIXE bolts.

*Dead Calm 30m 21
30-50m past river on main track (about 5-600m past the 2 above lines) on left-hand side of prominent steep buttress. 5 x 110mm M10 FIXE G316 Dual expansion bolts (With FIXE Hangers) and one glue (Ramset HAC10) in ring bolt lead right through steep moves until you reach the easier face above (lots of natural pro). DBB/rings lower off - approx 25m to ground. Joe Goding, Graham Holden. 3.11.01

Some Choss Heap 65m 15
(-1 star) Loose, poorly protected. Not worth repeating. Major arête right of Queen Bee. 3 pitches, say 25m, 25m, 15m. Start around the right side in corner, moving up and left onto face. Back right at around 25-30m to belay in corner system. Horizontally left onto arête proper, straight up to ledge. Bail here to avoid further complications. Traverse down and across to major ledge, rap from tree atop 1st pitch of Queen Bee. Joe Goding (P1&3), Steve Hamilton (P2). 6.10.02

Monkey Man 3rd pitch variant
Mt Difficult, Grampians: 25m, grade 16? As for described route through bottomless chimney. Head towards back of chimney, then turn around to face outwards, then rising bridging traverse. Take some large cams. Exit onto L wall (facing out) then up to top. May 2003. Michael Giacometti, John Maher

BARRS BUTTRESS

BREAKFAST ROOM BUTTRESS

CENTURION WALLS

*Devil's Haircut 25m 25/26
Absorbing and powerful sport climbing up nice orange rock.Climb Compressor Route to fifth RB.Step left under block (RB) and fire up excellent wall above (three RBs) with some nice big pockets to DRB lower-off.FFA Neil Monteith. 7.9.03

Pining For The Fiords 20m 22 * [sport]
The parrot in the horizontal is most certainly dead ­ or perhaps it¹s just resting? Steep cave climbing across a major feature on sometimes bizarre conglomerate rock. Starts 5m right of The Compressor Route. Stickclip first UB, then boulder up onto ledge. Balance and stretch rightwards using shallow mono to gain steep horizontal break. Monkey along this (past the sleeping Norwegian Blue) to novelty cave rest. Blast up headwall above which eases to jugs. 6 bolts and rap anchor. FFA Neil Monteith, Michael Lawrence, Adam Demmert & Catherine de Vaus 18.6.2006

PROMISED LAND

THE HEAVENS

PINE WALL

THE WATCHTOWER

The possible Direct Finish to Welcome to the Machine (The Watchtower, Grampians) reported in Argus, August 2004, is almost certainly a repeat of pitch two of The Things I Used to Do (25-4-04). Chris Baxter

Total Recoil - right hand variant 24
Start 3m right of Couldn't Stand The Weather. Up to 2nd FH. Step down then up right to Purple Haze corner. Hard moves Left to 3rd FH then up. Some small wires. Steven Wilson, Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes 2002
Total Recoil Direct 26?
Starts 3 m right of Couldn't Stand the Weather. Straight up wall past 3 fixed hangers, small wires. Double ring lower off (which services Purple Haze as well). First free ascent Steven Wilson Jan 2005.

*note: bolted for the direct line - open project

I note a reference in the Mt Difficult Range guidebook on the grading of Stephen Hamilton's Pride and Joy 19 at the Watchtower. It comments that as Campbell Mercer's Fruit Salad 16 shares the same crux P&J might be overgraded. As a word of warning to anyone starting up on that basis my experience of repeating several of Campbell's routes in the Grampians is that they are consistently undergraded by around 2 grades. I have repeated many of Stephen's routes and found them to be closer to the mark. I haven't done either of the routes mentioned but Fruit Salad looks considerably harder than 16 and unprotected to boot. Philip Armstrong

The routes here are made available on this site on an "as received" basis without any verification by the VCC. Thus, listed routes may have inaccurate details such as grade/length/location etc, or may be entirely fictional. If you have any information that clarifies or questions existing route descriptions, please send it in to

Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria.

ASSES EARS AREA

THE PIT

* Can't Stop Progress 18m 21
The prominent slightly overhung arête in an exposed position. Sustained and absorbing climbing with some spaced bolts up high. Six rings and one optional large wire. Lower-off anchors. FFA Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson 27.8.2004

Pinch and a Punch 18m 20
Line up heavily featured wall 2m right of Can't Stop Progress. Climb into the route from the right (trad) and onto the face (RB). Weave up the slightly overhung wall above which gets harder and steeper near the finish. The end moves feature some great pinch ribs and large pockets. Five RB's in all. Lower-off same anchor as CSP. FFA Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson 27.8.2004

Bush Comes to Shove 15m 20 *
A hidden gem on steep pocketed grey rock. Located aprox 50m around left of Old Masters on the right wall of a chimney. The climb is hidden from view behind some trees. Scramble up 5m mossy gully to chimney and spot FH¹s on right wall. Reachy moves on tendon and finger friendly rock and some of the biggest bomber jugs lead to the top. Three FH¹s and wires. Double bolt lower-off. FFA Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson and James Pfrunder 21.8.2004

ASSES EARS - Main Face

** A Northern Soul 31m 23
The line of most resistance up the main face and a harder second pitch to Snow Flurries. Reachy and atmospheric climbing with great protection. Belay as for 2nd pitch of Snow Flurries. Climb straight up from the belay aiming for the two FH¹s on the blank wall above. Five metres above the second FH step left and join up with Snow Flurries for its final 15m of pumpy conclusion. DRB rap anchor will JUST reach the belay on a 60m rope. Bring a full sized rack including 12 long quickdraws. FFA Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith 18.7.2004

La Petit Mort pitch lengths are in-correct. First pitch would be 40m at longest and the second pitch would also be less than 40m. The main headwall above the half-way ledge is only 35m high. Maybe with rope in the belay you could use up 50m worth of rope if you really tried.

SCHROEDERS CLIFF

* The Ember Attack 40m 22
A long and sustained wall climb on featured grey rock. Climb Battered Flake for 15m to roof. Traverse left for two metres across horizontal then bust through roof (FH) and up sustained and absorbing wall above past a further two FH¹s and plenty of trad gear. Bring a full rack, long slings and several RPs for the opening corner of Battered Flake. Rap 38m off double rings on ledge (requires two ropes). FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 21.01.2005

GERANIUM (BRIM) SPRINGS

Keith (Nod) Lockwood reports: "The next two climbs are old notes that Norm told Nod to send in to Argus after sorting them out. Seeing as I was not there at the time, and have no idea where they climbed or what they did, I have no intention of sorting them out until we go back there again. Here are Norm's notes. Make of them what you will.

Bluey 50m 22
Great moves on steep rock. Exciting climbing. Start: 3m right of Middle Age Flog. 1. 30m 22 Up groove line to an attractive orange flake. Reachy move to diagonal and up short, steep crack. Step right off ledge and straight up over left eye on beautiful rock. Up over another bulge to belay on large ledge. 2. 20m 15 Straight up wall to top. First ascent: Ed Neve, Norm Booth. 29/9/02.

Direct Start (to a climb Norm can't remember the name of), 15m 21
Starts on right wall of gully left of.... (??) Carry rack of small wires and RPs. Pro difficult to place. 1. 15m Step right off block part way up gully and climb to pocket (#3 Friend). Straight up wall and across right at top on good holds to join .... (??) First ascent: Ed Neve, Norm Booth. 29/9/02".

CHERUB WALL

WALLABY ROCKS - MIDDLE CLIFF

Descriptions are left to right from prominent orange overhanging wall

Orange overhanging wall, potential grade 20+ climbing, if you sand on top of the left cliff and look down and leftwards you can see this orange overhanging wall.

Stink Fist 20mtr 17/18
2mt left of wind scooped cave. Up rounded wall to three flaked holds, right and up through cracks at the top.C Abraham, J Mills 30/04/05

Velcro Gloves 20mtr 17/18
Climb out of left side of wind scooped cave. Follow right leading crack and up.C Abraham, J Mills 30/04/05

Arête right of wind scooped cave and ramp above TR R Clarke Easter 2005

Tope roped problem 18/19??
At right hand end of overhung wall/ middle of wallUp through overhang and upJ Mills C Abraham 31/04/05

Wallaby Jugs 20mtr 10
Start at right end of wall where all the jugs are. Looks dodgy and probably is. Up wall on frail holds to were it steepens and up C Abraham R Clarke Easter 2005

Anal Intrusions 20mtr 7/8
Up juggy gutter 2 right of wallaby jugs J Mills C Abraham 30/04/05

Wallaby's Bum 12mtr 8
10mtr right of Anal Intrusions. Start below right leading diagonal crack. Up short corner crack, gain right leading crack and follow right and up.C Abraham R Clarke Easter 2005

Top roped problem 20/21??
About 15mtr right of Wallaby's Bum just right of slabby wall. Up to right leading flake crack when this finishes step left and upTR J Mills C Abraham 31/04/05

Tope roped problem 17/18??
Start of boulder 2mtr right of above climb Steep right of boulder and up thin wall then up wall above

WALLABY ROCKS - LOWER CLIFF

Tope Roped problem 20mtr 15
Start at Orange scooped roof. Hard moves through small orange roof/scoop to crack and up poor pro C Abraham R Clarke

Tope Roped problem

Fingering the Wallaby 25mtr 14
Boundary start 2mrt left of Hidden Gem. Up curving crack and up. Hard to protect finish C Abraham R Clarke

Hidden Gem 25mrt 13
Start at obvious flake crack. Follow flake crake till it finishes then follow discontinuous cracks to the top C Abraham R Clarke Easter 2005

Shattered 25mtr 15
Start at obvious undercut crack 2mtr right of hidden gem. Up crack till it finishes, through rounded rock (unprotected), to two door nobs. Then up through frail ground Top roped C Abraham R Clarke Easter 2005

The routes here are made available on this site on an "as received" basis without any verification by the VCC. Thus, listed routes may have inaccurate details such as grade/length/location etc, or may be entirely fictional. If you have any information that clarifies or questions existing route descriptions, please send it in to .

Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria.

LOOKOUT POINT WALL

WEATHERED WALL

LAKE VIEW WALL

The routes here are made available on this site on an "as received" basis without any verification by the VCC. Thus, listed routes may have inaccurate details such as grade/length/location etc, or may be entirely fictional. If you have any information that clarifies or questions existing route descriptions, please send it in to .

Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria.

LITTLE JOE HILL ?

** Christijana 25m 17
Take the prominent and committing crack up until it disappears and finish at the ledge Pete Holmes & Rob Coller 10/3/03

50m to the left of Christijana and down one rock shelf.

Ellejana 23m 12
Up the flake, traverse left 2m and up the right leading crack, break through this and up to the top Pete Holmes & Rob Coller 10/3/03

Chris Baxter comments: The 'new routes' Christijana and Ellejana are most likely on Little Joe Hill and are unlikely to be new routes. In any event, a 'new' cliff in this well visited area is unlikely. See page 24 of the online South Eastern Grampians Update Part 1.

Philip Armstrong adds: Before accepting this verdict it should be noted that there is quite a lot of unclimbed rock at Little Joe Hill including a couple of lines which appear to have been cleaned and [presumably] climbed but not yet recorded. There are also a number of scattered buttresses of a decent size on the hillside L of Little Joe Hill. We didn't see anything at Little Joe Hill that matched the descriptions of Christijana and Ellejana.

Male Bonding variant finish 25m 17
Diagonal crack as for P2 of MB, step R then directly up face above via thin seam. Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox 24 September 2005.

FIRST DIAL

MT WILLIAM

UPPER CLIFF

Lower Orders 40m 19
Approx 50m R of the buttress with the prominent pinnacle locate a short steep buttress with a thin crack leading to a bulge. [This is about 70m L of the King Billy Buttress] 1. 20m [crux] Crack then up and R through bulge. 2. 20m Up to and up obvious crack Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong 30 December 2004

REDMAN'S BLUFF

Triple bolt belay (single dual expansion FIXE bolt with single ring at top, two glue in HILTI HVU capsules with G304 stainless bolts and dual FIXE rings). 50m to 1st belay station on Peanuts below small overhang (can be a little difficult to swing into this - beware. TIE KNOTS IN YOUR ROPES BEFORE DESCENDING HERE! Installed with Jane Rusden and Simon Pateman mid 2002.

Peanuts second pitch Direct ?m 18
Consistent climbing. 2a. After getting off the new FIXE DBB (2 x M10 x 90mm G304 Stainless bolts with Ramset HAC10 glue)/Abseil (26m) station at the top of pitch one and tackling exposed and technical corner past ledge to thin crack on face, (original route moves into second corner here) start on left side of arête (small wires) up thin moves on arête to ledge, past crack to top. Joe Goding, Tara Garson. 22.9.01

Uncertain Daze 25m 16
Approx 100 metres right of Peanuts is a small cairn at the base of a nice crack, which takes good wires to a horizontal break at 4m. Dance between twin cracks to unlikely looking steep bulge, which is well protected (0.3+0.4 BD) and much easier than it looks on good holds. When on the face above move left to large ledge with tree abseil. Rap approx 25m to ground. Joe Goding, Steve Holloway. 17.11.01

MT WILLIAM - UPPER CLIFF

King Billy IV 33m 18
Good . The buttress directly below where you reach the cliff. There is a distinctive boulder/pinnacle at the L edge of the face. 25m Up line behind pinnacle, trend R through small overlap into R hand seam. Up this through bulge to ledge. 8m Step out R from ledge to finish up steep crack. Philip Armstrong, Chris Armstrong 27 February 2005

Mrs Jordan 22m 16
From top of pillar, 4m R of KB. Steep wall, short flake then L hand seam. Philip Armstrong, Chris Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox 13 March 2005

Royal Bastard 28m 19
Excellent, sustained climbing. Start 4m R and 8m below MJ. Easy square cut chimney to ledge on L [possibly better to start from here]. The surprisingly frantic groove and seam exiting Rward to finish up short cracks and steep head wall. Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong 14 March 2005

William Who? 27m 17
Nice varied climb. The next buttress R of the King Billy buttress has a steep bushy gully in the centre [about 10m R of RB]. 12m The clean arete just R the gully moving R when the angle eases to belay on large banksia. 15m Corner then out R to finish up steep line. Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong [alts] and Chris Armstrong 13 March 2005

Last Will 18m 11
About 10m R of WW starting on top of the platform 8m higher. Take crack up R side of short pillar and continue up through bulge to foot of large chimney. Climb R arete of chimney. Philip Armstrong, Chris Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox 14 March 2005

WHOOPY DOO ROCK

The routes here are made available on this site on an "as received" basis without any verification by the VCC. Thus, listed routes may have inaccurate details such as grade/length/location etc, or may be entirely fictional. If you have any information that clarifies or questions existing route descriptions, please send it in to .

Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria.

PADDY'S CASTLE

To be Slim, To be Slim 12m 10
Start 2m L of Irish Weetbix and head back into the bowels of the crag to squeeze out the back. Richard Eustace & Friends 16/11/03

Doing a Line 12m 18
Up Dungeon for 4m, then short orange bum crack on L wall. Step L then direct up the wall (small-med cams), and through the top bulge. Will Monks, Heather Murray, Ben Wright 16/11/03

A Bit of Craic 12m 14
Up Dungeon for 4m, then short orange bum crack on L wall. Step R to crack and up it, staying out of Dungeon. If you stay in Dungeon for a few more metres then step L into the line, the grade would probably drop to about 12. Ben Wright, Heather Murray, Will Monks 16/11/03

* Clever Heather 15m 21
Start 3m L of Fredarnehaun. 4m handcrack, step L under thin roof. Back R above roof to short thin corner, up it, then step L to insecure orange slab moves just L of black streak to gain break under roof. Hand traverse R to an airy mantle onto ledge. Short easy finish. Will Monks, Ben Wright, 16/11/03

BUNDALEER

MT ROSEA

Gate of the East Wind

Hypocrite 14m 18
Nice wall climbing on grit like rock. This route had four un-glued u-bolts in place (bolter unknown) that were removed by hand during the onsight ascent. Very good trad is available all the way up this climb. Starts at small orange corner with tiny roof above that sits directly below a rounded arete. Bridge up corner then step right to good thin crack. Up this and onto slopey face above to final 'gritstone' top out and the surprised tourists. Bring a full rack to #3 SLCD size. FFA Neil Monteith & Mike File 22.1.2005

Travesty 14m 19
Excellent thin wall climbing with unlikely natural gear. Starts 2m left of Hypocrite just left of the arête. Thin moves up face with occasional holds found on the right arête. Slopey finish just left of Hypocrite. Small wires are useful. FFA Mike File & Neil Monteith 22.1.2005

EASTERN WALL - PEKING FACE

Tao Disciple 20m 16
Start 2m left of Kurdish Peasant Girl. Up slabby face past horizontal break and good holds to small ledge on arête. Continue up short crack to larger ledge, up groove to V crack - up to top. Steve Holloway, Glen Buchanan. 23.12.02

Rasta Rant 12m 19
Shares Kowloon Crack for 3m, then breaks left onto beautiful orange face with good features. Delicate move leads past FH (G304 M10 x 90mm w/ HILTI HVU Glue cap & PF Hanger) to small wires and top (there is now a double ring abseil which services Kowloon Crack, Rasta Rant and Tao Master - 12m to ground). Anthony Pattison, Joe Goding.

Tao Master 12m 18
Start 2m right of Kurdish Peasant Girl at obvious arête. Steep moves on good holds to start up arête past 2 FHs to flake on right-hand side of arête. Traverse right to rap station above Rasta Rant. Steve Holloway, Joe Goding, Glen Buchanan 23.12.2002

MOORA ROCKS (Opposite Western Block)

Yesterday's Pig 17, 20m
Right of family affair is an arete. Start just right of the arete up steep wall to protection adn holds. Continue easily up crack. Mark Witham & Deb Churches April 2002

Razor Back 12, 25m
Right of Yesterday's Pig and about in the middle of the cliff is a large block leaning against a wall forming a small belay cave. Start from the belay cave taking the overhanging crack on the left wall. When the crack finishes move about 1m left to join a second crack. At the top of this crack step Right around the bulge then move up and step back left to finish up blank top face. Mark Witham & Deb Churches April 2002

Ham Jam 14, 15m
At the far RHS of the cliff is a less than vertical wall with 2 cracks. Ham Jam takes the RH crack. Start just past a block and up to a flake that is almost detached. Continue up crack to top. Move right on last move.Mark Witham, Paul Francis & Deb Churches April 2002

UnNamed 14, 15m
The LH crack just left of Ham Jam Michael Hartman & Sally Both April 2002

The routes here are made available on this site on an "as received" basis without any verification by the VCC. Thus, listed routes may have inaccurate details such as grade/length/location etc, or may be entirely fictional. If you have any information that clarifies or questions existing route descriptions, please send it in to .

Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria.

GONDWANALAND

*Faceless 20m 25
Sustained thin wall climbing up a slightly overhung face. Same start as Picking Plums but head right along juggy break past RB then follow further five RBs up crimpy wall to DRB anchor. Fourth RB is hard to clip. FFA Neil Monteith 7.6.03

**Face Off 24m 26
AKA Faceless Direct Start.Adds four more bolts and a very tough series of tenuous laybacks to the start.Joins Faceless for its last four rings.Starts on small ledge down and right of Picking Plums with a single RB belay (#4 cam useful for upward pulling anchor).Span the gap between the big jug and the "crack" with a shoulder destroying reach then plant your feet on nothing and layback to glory. Beware of runout between bolt 4 and 5.FFA Neil Monteith 28.2.04

Face The Dissection 24 (prev 23) thin and hard crux

Chasing The Sun 20m 21

Orange slab split by thin seam and a great overhung finish.Located on separate buttress 100m left of the second short rock wall you reach on the walk up to the main cliff of Gondwanaland.Bouldery start (RB) then right leading weakness to seam.Up this for 10m then skirt under orange roof and then thug back left across overhang to crux finish. Lower off last bolt or belay on ledge. Four bolts plus natural gear to finger crack size. FFA Neil Monteith, Monique Forestier, Simon Carter. 12.10.03

The Dragon's Lair 80m 17
This area is around 3-400m uphill of the existing routes, approach is by a short, loose and dirty corner (see obvious erosion). Up to high point in narrow gully to see the obvious thin ridgeline which looks somewhat like a dragon's back. This route starts on the left wall, at a point where there is an obvious horizontal break. 1. 10m (8) Traverse along this (right) for 10m to belay below orange corner. 2. 25m (17) Up delicately with good gear and good holds just watch the rock quality. Take your time and you will be fine. 3. 30m (17) Continue up and left to pass massive cave on its right, both gear and holds thin out in the middle of this pitch. Belay about level with the top of the cave. 4. 25m (12) Easily up to top. Scramble off just before the top of the pinnacle, to the south side, heading east through narrow gully. Retrace your path to the beginning. Joe Goding, Stephen Holloway. 15.2.03

THE LOST WORLD

Directions to The Lost World (7/2/04)

Access: The directions in the Victoria Range Guide are incorrect, the Lost World is NOT along Matthews Track it is along the Emu's Foot track. This is the same road as for Eureka Walls and Gondwannaland. The Emu's Foot Track is not signposted and runs south-east at the foot of the Victoria Range and finishes at barriers at the Camp of the Emu's Foot. Drive along this track for 2km to the parking bay on the left, the walking track is marked with cairns. Follow cairns until they run out and head left over the black slabs towards the tiered orange wall of Little Boy Lost, Space Odyssey and The Obelisk (this is the right side of the creek upper terrace) Walking down along cliff is Cosmos (22) and Humbolt (20/21) easy to spot ring bolts. Further down the track is the crack of Roraima (18), Casiquiare (21) and the "staggering" red arête of Red Line. A map of the area might clear things up.

There has been some recent activity in The Lost World area of the northern Victoria Range (Victoria Range Guide, Loughran, p.46, and South-Western Grampians interim guide, p.3). Some people have started calling the area The Orinoco, but the earliest routes on both sides of the creek are listed as being in The Lost World.A cairned track from a parking bay leads up to the Little Boy Lost/A Space Odyssey area. Many of the routes are absolute stunners - some of the best in the Grampians. The following is a resume of old and new routes Left side of the creek = The Go-Between, Indiana Jones and The Mind Tinker (see guidebooks). Right side of the creek, lower terrace:

Orinoco Flow 26
Mind-blowing roof and arête by Malcolm Matheson.

Right side of the creek, upper terrace, routes described left to right:

Red Line 28
Staggering red arete by Malcolm Matheson, September 2003.

Casiquiare 25m 21
Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of Roraima and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way. Malcolm Matheson, Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood. 4.10.03

Roraima 25m 18
Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood. 15.8.03

Toucan 50m 19
Rivals Roraima as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall. 1. 30m Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete. 2. 20m Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.Keith Lockwood, Tim Lockwood. (alts), 27.9.03.

Cosmos 35m 22
Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof.Malcolm Matheson, 2003.

Humboldt 25m 20/21
Start up pockets as for Cosmos, then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right).Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood. 15.8.03

The easy-angled corner around right from Humboldt has been done but is pretty ordinary. It finishes at the Humboldt rap anchors.

A Space Odyssey 27
This is the gigantic roof just left of Little Boy Lost.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch.Second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête.Malcolm Matheson.September 2003.

The Obelisk 27
First pitch as for A Space Odyssey, then do roof right of A Space Odyssey's second pitch.Malcolm Matheson. September 2003.

Little Boy Lost 24
See p.3 of South-Western Grampians interim guide.

JUNGLE GYM

MULINE CRAG

Tattoos of Memories 40m 16
Spectacular stuff. Takes a hanging rib which bisects two big red caves, then a sweeping blade arete above. The caves feature the roof climb Path of Garth. Starts: On big cliff down and right of main Muline Crag. From the car, walk up track as far as the second rocky outcrop. Skirt right 50m around base of outcrop to cliff. 1. 20m A ramp leads out the right side of a scoop. Continue up orange bulging wall to base of rib. 2. 20m Rib, then arete. Walk off left. First ascent: Tim and Keith Lockwood, alt leads, February 17, 2006.

EMU ROCK

Nile 40m 13
Left of Whipping Boy is a big orange wall. Nile takes the right edge of this wall. 1. 20m Climb slabby wall trending up right until below overhang. Pull around left side of overhang and up juggy arete to ledge. 2. 20m Up left and up wall to the left of black slab. Step right to ledge. Abseil off bollards. First ascent: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, alt leads, and Norm Booth. April 15, 2005.

HOLLYWOOD BOWL

ancient times direct **15
1. 20m 14, start as for ancient times, belay at right hand edge of the sloping ledge at around 20m. 2. 40m 15, the 'S' shaped crack system. Up the line 10m to overhang [watch for brittle rock], through it to the original line. 09/04/05 Tim Wallace/Hannah Loki and Phil Cutlet

Kickback 35m 24 ** [mixed]
Sporty incuts up a sustained face, then exciting trad climbing up a steep weakness. Starts about 8m right of Wings of Desire and 3m left of Trust. Traverse left across pocketed wall (two FHs) then up the face above past horizontal break (cams) and onto face proper. Edge for pleasure on sideways sloping rails (three FHs) to crux move right into seam crack. Up this crack with a dogleg left past a huge fang for 20m to top trad belay. Full trad rack to #2 SLCD required. FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 9.4.2006

Wings of Desire (23) - I thought this was more like grade 21 and worth 1 star. It had some loose rock and wasn't very sustained. Roof move was surprisingly easy.

RED ROCK PINNACLES

Gimli 25m 14
Pinnacle 30m right of Wimbleton. Climb easy-angled grey rib for about 7m, step left then steeply to top of pinnacle. Descent can be accomplished over the next pinnacle. Ray Lassman, Keith & Tim Lockwood. 19.4.03

Grey Matter 40m 13
Long gentle wall left of Womble. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between Red Rock Pinnacle and the Hamstrung pinnacle. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles. Keith Lockwood, Pete Canning, Norm Booth, Ed Neve. 3.5.03

Height Of Darkness 20m 15
Grey slabby wall directly opposite Fat Fingered Freak. Bouldery start which relents to big pockets and some seriously large jugs at end.Three BRs and natural pro. First ascent was climbed in the pitch-dark.FFA Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middleton. 21.9.03

*Static Ticking Rampage 20m 22
Scoopy steep sport route. Starts below suspended chockstone belay of Strike The First Blow on backside of northern pinnacle. Up into scoop and over rooflet then easily up jugs to tricky step right onto small ledge. Blast straight up orange overhung wall above to horizontal break and finish up left past the last FH of Strike The First Blow to its rap chain. 6 RBs. Neil Monteith, Tim Lee. 27.10.03

A Bolt Too Far 10m 22 [sport]
A rising pumpy traverse line which doesn¹t quite go to the top of the cliff (yet). Starts 5m right of Static Ticking Rampage at rounded arête in shady cave. Stick-clip first bolt to protect balancy start. Monkey, huff and puff along break which keeps getting steeper and more strenous to lower-off fourth u-bolt bolt (5th bolt above is a closed project). Stays dry in all weather. FFA Adam Demmert, Neil Monteith & Catherine de vaus 21.5.2006

* Struck Twice 17m 24 [sport]
Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face of northern pillar about 10m right of Static Ticking Rampage. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off. FFA Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert 14.5.2006

Gandolf the Grey 17m 17 (S)
On the black slab opposite Static Ticking Rampage, the right hand side line past 1 UB and 4 FH. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off. FFA Ben Hawthorne and Hugh Williams, Feb 2005.

Bellrock 17m 21 (S)
2m left of Gandolf the Grey. Up the line past 3 FH. A thin crux through the bulge and finish up the arête as for Gandolf the Grey. May be easier if you are tall. FFA Ben Hawthorne and Hugh Williams, Feb 2005.

Vertebrae 19 (prev 20) one move wonder.

Kentucky Fried Clippin¹ 8m 20 (S)
Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arête opposite Vertabrae. Three FH¹s. Walk back to tree belay. FFA Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith 12.3.2005

Conflict Of Interest 20 (prev 21) grade 19 if you climb around the rooflet at the second bolt.

Variance 23 (prev 24) too many onsights!

Bathysphere 15m 25
Start 3 metres right of Wave Of Mutilation. Up the grey wall past 2 bolts, traversing right past another bolt to the orange scoops. Up, past a fourth bolt to a heartbreaking mantle into the beautiful spherical ledge. Chain anchor. Be careful, as the back wall is never far behind you. FFA Tim Marsh. 2004

4/1/05: This crag is slowly forming into one of the most accessible areas of mid grade sport routes in the Grampians.

Get What You Paid For 15m 23 (sport route)
Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt lower-off. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two. FFA Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert 4.12.2004

Sweat of Effort 20m 23
Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of Vertebrae. Bulgy Arapiles style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean. FFA Malcolm Matheson & Neil Monteith 12.12.2004

* Dang 9m 20 (sport route)
An alternative first pitch to Redback. Starts 10m down and left of Conflict of Interest at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH's. Belay on ledge with natural gear. Scramble off to the right (roped) or continue upwards into Redback ­ grade 25. FFA Neil Monteith & Malcolm Matheson 12.12.2004

* Full Metal Vengeance 25m 23 (sport route)
This one's for Justin Thyme. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for Conflict of Interest on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold. FFA Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt 2.1.2005

Over And Out 12m 18 [trad]
Wide overhung trench 4m right of Used Platypus Condom. No wide trad gear required. Surprisingly steep and interesting. Walk off descent. FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 10.12.2005

Raver Girl 15m 20 * [mixed]
A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock. Starts 5m right of Over And Out at right edge of undercut grey wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. Monkey leftwards across these (medium SLCD¹s) to a flake forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent. FFA Hannah Lockie & Neil Monteith 10.12.2005

Raver Boy 11m 21 * [ruined sport route]
A thin direct finish to Raver Girl. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro and head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off descent. FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 10.12.1005

RED ROCKS AREA - BAND OF GYPSIES

* Over Committed 20m 20 (mixed)
Superb grit style arête. Originally led ground up in a state of pure fear. Retro-bolted to eliminate 10m runout to first bit of trad gear. Starts 3m right Band of Thieves at right edge of wall. Step off block on the right to gain arête (BR) then pivot around to left side and awkwardly up (BR) to easier ground. Continue up arête with awesome gear to top. Rap off chains above Band of Thieves. FFA Neil Monteith & Mick Hampton 2.10.2005

Pic: HB on Grand Oral Disseminator (27), by Neil Monteith

** Grand Oral Disseminator 25m 27 (mixed)
One of the best crack lines in the Grampians. Stared at for years by various suitors ­ but no one had dared to actually rope up. Malcolm eventually put the climb out of its misery. The desperate right-leading diagonal on smooth orange rock. Footholds are minimal. All trad apart from lone FH at double knee bar stance at flakes widest point. Watch for skating cams and feet as the rock is very slick. Walk off for descent. FFA Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert 16.10.2005

Squeezed Out 13m 21 (mixed)
The bolted off-width corner/crack 5m left of Private Parts. Can be laybacked and bridged at about grade 25 (as done by first ascentist!). It is grade 21 if you enjoy thrutching inside deep cracks with fist stacks. Two BR¹s and several #5 cams are required. Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson 16.10.2005

Dutch Courage 18m 20 (trad)
Steep right facing corner 5m right of Crazy Like a Fox. Layback, jam and chimney - this route has everything. Up the initial corner crack, to get established in the chimney, wriggle up this with difficulty. Then right round the arête, finishing up the right hand chimney. Trad belay, then easy scramble to the slings at the top of Crazy Like A Fox. FFA Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter 16.10.2005

* Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy 25m 20
Climbs Mad Cow until its second FH and then heads up and slightly right on jugs to a FH. Balancy moves up the slab to the thin diagonal seam leading right into Crazy Like a Fox. Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman, Ross Timms 14-04-06

THE FAR PAVILION

*Beer, Brie and Waku beef Sausages maketh the man 30m 20
Starts at the far left of the Far Pavilion at a slabby wall and finishing up an attractive left leaning diagonal crack just right of a huge roof. BTW - the top can be accessed round and left of this massive roof in about 8 mins. Climb slab with tricky thin move at about 8m to steepening. Up with some difficulty to stance, diagonally left with sustained moves in airy position. Fun climbing with good gear and good rock. 2 x 120cm slings around large spike get you to the ground. *Originally led on a 60m rope - not much slack left, but might be possible on a 50m rope. FA Joe Goding, Lawrie Cowley, Paul Tailien, Peter Mills, Ro Packer. 12.11.2005

The following routes are located a long way up and left of "The Cold War" and "Glasnost". About 200m up and left of "Glasnost" is a wide gully (a major descent gully) with a steep buttress on its right side and a vertical black textured wall on it's left. Keep heading further around up and left of this next major cliff line, dropping down first (where a lovely un-climbed arete awaits, and perhaps a few more lines as well). Up and left of this about a further 100m you will find a large obvious chimney (For Old Times Sake), with a nice looking crack high on the wall to it's left - starting from half height (Absorbed in Stone) and a stunning arete to it's right, which is better than it looks. All routes descent via a walk off to the left (about 5-8mins). Carefully over the slabs over some large (to date un-climbed) walls to major gully where you can easily walk around the left end of the crag. There are notched holes drilled for two FIXE, but the rap station is still to be installed.

All (BR) bolts described here are M10 x 90mm G304 stainless, using Ramset hammer in epoxy glue.

For Old Times Sake 30m 12*
The obvious deep chimney in large corner. Enjoyable the whole way, just a bit too run out in places to make it really popular though. That said, good holds and gear does pop up than it looks from the ground. Up chimney for around 22m till you reach a nice corner hidden high on the right wall. Up this to natural belay. FA Geoff Gledhill, Josef Goding 26.11.2005

Absorbed in Stone 35m, 18
Sustained, delicate and consistently absorbing - but not in the same league of quality as "Bliss" and the other routes in that area. P1 (16) 18m: Start as "For Old Times Sake" until good hold on left wall. Place high nuts above this on right wall, then traverse back left up the left leaning diagonal to arete (thin, fiddly marginal gear until you reach the arete - where a stonker sideways large nut will put a smile back on your face. Mantle onto ledge above to belay. P2 (Crux) 17m: up crack, which saves it's best and hardest till the bitter end. FA Josef Goding, Geoff Gledhill (alt) 26.11.2005

Bliss 30m, 17***
Dedicated to my darling Tamsin, beautiful moves in an excellent position on good rock. The sweeping arete on the right side of large deep corner (For Old Times Sake). Step right off 2m high block past BR to gain arete/ledge. Delicately past BR to good holds. Swing round the arete to the right (small gear - take some very small aliens) then up the slab and back left to the arete. Up the line to a dramatic but easy finish past a last BR. FA Josef Goding, Geoff Gledhill 26.11.2005

Happy Wanderer 35m, 15*
More than enough quality climbing to keep a smile on your dial the whole way. Start as for "Old Times Sake" to good nuts on right wall. Traverse right to the corner past arete (where "Bliss heads back left to join the arete), stay with the corner till the end. Good gear and interesting climbing. 2nd bypassed the chimney start, and went for the "Bliss" alternative which was very pleasant indeed. FA Geoff Gledhill, Josef Goding 27.11.2005

Bliss Left Wall Variant 30m, 20**
Classy face climbing. Share the first two BR's on "Bliss" to good holds. Left to middle of face. Blast up on unlikely holds past another BR to join the arete, and finish as for "Bliss". FA Mark Rewi, Nicholas Kiraly, Matthew Shepley 27.11.2005

Karenina 60m 22 ** [mixed]
A direct line straight up the face just right of Kava Boy. The second pitch needs a lead ascent as extreme heat thwarted attempts on the first ascent. Located about 6m left of Far Horizons on the right side of arête. 1) 20m 22 Up left facing flake crack for a few metres and step left (BR) to gain seam crack. Up this crack which turns briefly into a runnel (#3 SLCD) to second BR and reachy move to gain continuation of cracks. Belay at same stance as end of Kava Boy pitch one. 2) 30m 21 Up Kava Boy for 5m then step right 3m onto the unlikely cracked face. Blast straight up this for 30m to belay on ledge at end of Kava Boy pitch. Bring lots of wires for this pitch! 2. 3) 10m 19 As for Kava Boy pitch 3. FA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 11.12.2005 (2nd pitch only top-roped so far)

CRAG X

EMU ROCKS

SCOOP ROCKS

*Talon 13m 25
Excellent steep sport climbing on polished rock. Starts 5m left of Poison Bait. Bouldery start then up rounded flake with a long move to big jug under roof. Power through five metre ceiling to finish at Poison Bait's chain. Five RBs. FFA Malcolm Matheson, Neil Monteith.July 2003

** Three Legged Dog 22m 23
Steep pumpy gym style climbing. Adds a hard direct start to Quasimodo¹s Dream on the Prow. Starts 3m right of Hunchback at protruding wide tufa fin. Up this with difficulty (FH) to large jug (small wire on left). A thin move leads to killer jugs up outstanding orange wall (2 FH¹s) to join Quasimodo¹s Dream at horizontal break 2/3rd of the way up the wall. Finish direct up juggy prow rather than bailing off to the left. Single FH and sling rap anchor. Bring a small range of cams and wires or just run it out between the bolts! FFA Neil Monteith & Malcolm Matheson June 2005

Quasimodo's Dream is a pretty soft tick for 23. There is no single hard move - it is all just steep jug pulling. Downgrading to 22 would be better.

SCOOP ROCKS - BREEDERS WALL

Small Block: At the E end of the buttress (past the big cave round left of poison bait cave) is a short wall with the following route. This can also be approached from the S side. This is called the Small Block.

Large Lamingtons 12m 19
A fun micro route. Hard start to FH, then up an L on slopey ledge to thin cracks (small wires) to top. Walk off Nth Side of block. Steve Holloway, Joe Goding, Amanda Cole April 03

*Chemical Addiction 12m 19
Stick clip "PFH" FH 2200kg (M10x90mm G316 bolt placed with HILTI HVU Capsule) @ 4m. Jump for good horizontal break (or delicately up just R on tinys). Up and R of FH, past R side of mini-roof. Straight up past this with good wires to top. Natural belay. Scramble off north side of the small block with excellent views of the surrounding area. FFA Joe Goding, Amanda Cole, Stephen Holloway. 29.03.2003.

Latte Land: From Small block, walk approx 100m across flat ground to a good looking organge overhanging wall, about 25m high. In the gully on the right you will find...

**Double Short Black 10m 22.
Good fun micro route. Steep climbing on Good holds. Bridge across from boulder opposite attractive steep wall onto broken foothold (BR). Traverse R past 2nd BR, back up and left to 3rd BR (crux). Steeply up & R to crack (#1 or #2 BD Camelot). Up to top. Natural belay on cams. Scramble off to Left & down Chasm FFA Joe Goding, Amanda Cole 30.03.2003.

*Still at Scoop rocks, opposite Peasant Wall, on the north side of the creek, is a small wall. (this is under "Peasant Wall" Currently on the website)

SUNNY BOY BLOCK

Located on small west facing block 100m up hill between Billabong Boy block and The Tower. It is just 10m to the left of the cairned track and is visible through the trees. Several boulder problems have been done at the base of this wall.

Sunny Boy 10m 23 (S)
Short but intense face climbing up right side of wall. Three RB¹s with safe but scary topout. U-bolt lower-off. FFA Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson 13.3.2005

SHERPA ROCKS

The Corner 12m 20
Subtle orange Arapilesian corner with a bit of moss about 5m right of Invalid Stout.Ledge at 8m and then overhung jug hauling up small roof crack.Needs a BR.FTRA Neil Monteith 24.1.04

Invalid Stout 15m 20
Crack up subtle arête on right side of entrance to first gully. Easy juggy crack for 5m to high BR.Step right and layback up tenuous crack (crux) to break.Through difficult bulge and onwards to top.U-bolt lower off.FFA Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson. 23.11.03

**Revenue Road 17m 21
Great rock in a shaded gully.Start as for Invalid Stout.At first BR step left and up rounded slopers past another three BRs and medium to large SLCDs. Belay off large rock bollards on summit. Crux is reachy. FFA Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson. 23.11.03

Woodys 13m 17
Orange corner opposite Revenue Road on east side of gully.Trad gear.FFA Kent Paterson, Neil Monteith.24. 1.04

*Best Of Hillwood 13m 23
Starts 5m right of Woodys about halfway inside the first gully.Flake crack to start leads to horizontal break.Baffling move onto seemingly blank wall (BR) leads to rounded jugggy finish (BR).Superb rock quality.FFA Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson. 24.1.04

*Heaven Is A Truck 17m 22/23
Start in second small gully 10m east of Invalid Stout.Three ringbolts up steep fingery wall lead to good small/medium cams and wires up face and corner finish. Neat orange rock Paterson, Neil Monteith. 23.11.03

Poison Bait 26 (prev 25) V4+ boulder problem start which has baffled many strong climbers.

Angry Arborist 24+ (prev 23) this has had many short climbers stumped with its long reach move.

Isolation 24 (prev 23) slick rock is hard to climb in hot summer sun!

THE CRATER

**Isolation 20m 23
Orange Arapilesian-face hidden on an isolated pinnacle. Located on north-facing overhung wall 100m uphill and west from the western end of The Crater. Thin start then jugs lead left to small flake.Hand traverse right slightly and over crux bulge at end.Three FHs and medium-size natural gear.FFA Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middleton, Kent Paterson. 22.9.03

THE CRATER

PEASANT WALL

* Billabong Boy 10m 24
(So named because the FA had to get water by swimming out into a billabong and got mighty muddy!) Palmistry at its best. Blank corner and right facing layback flake opposite main section of Peasant Wall. Stem up to short crack opening (#1 SLCD) then boldly up with nigh all handholds to FH. Lunge out rightwards with nigh all footholds to thank-god layback flake. Up this easily to ledge and lower-off anchor. FFA Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon 27.12.2004

*The Big Get-together 17m 19
(May possibly have been referred to as Jamie's route - which I don't think he got around to ever doing) Enjoyable, well protected, sustained crack climbing up the corner around 5m left of Billabong Boy. Great gear, fun moves. Might get a little dirty after rain. Either belay on ledge and traverse down & R to rap anchors on Billabong boy, or just top out and walk off. FA Joe Goding, Anthony Pattison. 26.03.2005

THE CATACOMBS

Wrapped in Pain 30m 24 *
Located on north facing main wall with a large scooped base. Three FH¹s up right leading steep scoops to gain broken crackline. Up this with fiddly pro to committing topout up grey wall. FFA Neil Monteith & Malcolm Matheson May 2004

Maggot Ridden 15m 18
West side of entrance to the Slow Torture Gully which is 50m west of Wrapped in Pain. Worthwhile despite the name. Rounded arête with short crack at start. Bulgy and committing finish with last trad below your feet. FFA Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewellyn & Adam Demmert 5/12/2004

* Slow Torture 15m 22
Starts 3m left of Maggot Ridden. Technical face and seam climbing with spaced small trad gear. Great rock. FFA Adam Demmert & Gareth Llewellyn 5/12/2004

The next two routes are located on the left side of a south facing wall that is 50m north of Wrapped in Pain. Either scramble up grey jugs directly opposite Wrapped in Pain or find your way up the gully on east side. The climbs start on a terrace that has three thin cracklines on the left side.

Hudson's Training Regime 15m 20
The right crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the gap, then blast up the crack pumping out placing gear. At small roof head up and left. Abseil off fixed sling above Walking the Void. Adam Demmert & Alastair Hudson 24.4.05

* Walking the Void 15m 23
The middle crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the void, couple of hard moves lead to a rest, then waltz up the crack heading up the left branch where the crack forks and steepens. Pumpy last moves to good jugs. Abseil off fixed sling. Adam Demmert 24/4/05

Skullcracker 20m 22
20m left of Slow Torture. Scoops to flake crack then onwards to inverted ceiling. Place vital small cam in slot and swing downwards on horn jug (FH) and over lip to juggy face. Up this face (two FH¹s and sling horns) to clip-and-go lower-off. Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, Rich Ham & Jono Schimdt 24.4.2005

Knight's Duel 20m 12
Very featured crack directly opposite Skullcracker with nice jugs to finish. Anita Sharman & Rich Ham 24.4.2005

* Fire Breathing Dragon 20m 15
The first crack 1m from the arete on the left side of the wall as you walk into the Slow Torture gully. Tricky roof move with nice crack to finish. Anita Sharman, Rich Ham & Neil Monteith 24.4.2005

THE TOWER

4/1/05: This wall is still pumping out classics. A few harder lines will hopefully fall in the near future including an HB finger-crack project somewhere around the grade 30 mark.

Popeyed ­ is more like grade 21/22 than 23. It has great gear and is a three star line.

***Iron Arms 45m 24
Two pitches of pumpy orange wall climbing. Starts 5m left of Popeyed at scoopy overhung wall. 1. ?m (24) Technical climbing up scoop past three FHs leads to jugs and cave rest (medium cams).Blast up reachy wall above past last FH and head left to chain. 2. ?m (20) Step right from chain and follow thin crack heading slightly right to finish up juggy headwall on spaced gear.Rap off sling. Pitch 1 Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson. 11.5.03. Pitch 2 Neil Monteith. 22.11.03

* Popeyed Iron Arms Link-up 15m 22
Best warm-up on the cliff. Start as for Popeyed and traverse left on jugs to the 'cave' on Iron Arms. Finish as for Iron Arms past long blind reach move and FH. FFA Kent Paterson 31.12.2004

Olive Oyl 18m 19
Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeye and in centre of wall on a separate buttress below Kent's bolted Project. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay. Neil Monteith, Jono Schimdt. 11.5.03

Grease Me Up Laddie 70m un-graded
Squeeze into slot under Kent's bolted project (50m right of Popeye). Squirm your way through to the other side of The Tower heading for the light. Finish in the bouldering cave. Neil Monteith, Jono Schimdt. 11.5.03

Goil 11m 22
Small south facing grey wall on boulder about 100m below the north-west end of The Tower. Start is marked by cairn. Up overhung juggy crack to start then onwards up slopers and faint corner with spaced good gear. Crux move in corner near end. Rap off tree leaning against boulder to descend. Neil Monteith, Jono Schimdt. 11.5.03

**Inspector Gadget 38m 24
A very height dependant grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. 1. 18m (24) Starts up Terror Of The Sea to 2nd BR. Instead of traversing left go straight up past another BR and 2 FHs. Traverse right across slab at last FH to cave and belay on #3½ camalot, big nut and #2 friend. 2. 20m (21/22). Step right from cave and up amazing sustained orange cracked wall. 2 BRs, 1 RB and small-medium trad gear. Double ring lower off (double ropes required). Fantastic rock and moves the entire way. Kent Paterson, Tim Le. 7.2.04

** BMX Bandits 20m 24
An awesome faint arête and corner system on super quality rock. An alternate second pitch of Inspector Gadget. Belay in cave as for the end of Inspector Gadget's second pitch. Clip first BR on IG then launch directly up to FH. Battle upwards on slopers, dishes and the occasional ledge past a further two FH¹s. Finish up small corner (medium cams then BR) to finish at double RB belay/lower-off. FFA Kent Paterson & Jono Schimdt 3.1.2005

* Toar (pitch two) 20m 23/24
First pitch is still a closed project (Neil's). Exposed face climbing. For the moment climb first pitch of Inspector Gadget and belay at single giant U-bolt just left of fridge sized bird-poo stained hanging 'death' block (5m right of Terror of the Sea¹s first pitch). Climb cautiously onto block (good #4 rock in pocket a metre above anchor). From block climb faint crack directly above onto exposed face and up this past two FH¹s to juggy finish. An alternative which avoids the hanging block is to start as for BMX Bandits for two bolts then traverse left into the crack line. Double rap rings for descent. FFA Neil Monteith 3.1.2005

**Terror Of The Sea 40m 26
Immaculate rock and a very tough crux. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. 1. ?m (26) Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall to horizontal break and rooflet.Up and left past BR and 2 FHs to mantle onto ledge.Finish up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave. 2. ?m (22) swings right past t2 RBs to very exposed prow and natural gear.Step left and up flakes (RB) and surmount rooflet to grey juggy wall.Up this for 6m to rap anchor on ledge.Has been led as one giant pitch.Bring some medium/large cams.Pitch 1 Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson. 31.11.03. Pitch 2 Neil Monteith. 25.1.04

** See The Light 25m 22
Great rock, amazing moves and the easiest line up the main wall! Very Taipan-esque. Start as for Terror of the Sea. After first BR traverse left for five metres across horizontal break (BR) to good hand-jam stance. Reachy moves upwards on positive holds gain a character building BR placement. Take a breather on the small ledge then launch rightwards (BR) to mantle onto leftwards sloping ramp. Tackle the final sloping bulge past FH to clip-and-go lower-off anchor placed on lip. Very pumpy. FFA Kent Paterson October 2004

* King Features 35m 22
A rising girdle traverse of the wall. Starts on ledge 5m left of Super Mario Bros. Follow left leading line past all the classics to arrive at rap chain on Iron Arms. Full rack of cams required. Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt 24.4.2005

**Super Mario Bros. 20m 25
Prominent hanging arête on The Tower about 25m right of Popeyed.Stickclip 3rd FH on face then make a huge lunge from opposite shelf to huecos on the lip.Bouldery leftwards climbing past 2 FHs leads to step right and easier corner crack climbing.Bring ½ to 2 cams and a few wires for this excellent easy crack finish.Rap lower off. Direct start past 2 FHs is an open project.FFA Kent Paterson, Neil Monteith. 22.11.03

Super Gadget 35m 28
Links Super Mario Bro's first pitch into Inspector Gadgets second pitch via five metres of hard new climbing. At SMB's fifth bolt head left on diagonal seam past two FH's to join the grade 23 corner pitch of Inspector Gadget. Malcom forgot the quickdraws and trad rack for the second half of this route and had to commit to a frightening runout to reach the anchors! This is currently the hardest route at the crag. FFA Malcolm Matheson Febuary 2005.

*Red Right Hand 17m 26
Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of Super Mario Bros.Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock.A trad classic for those with the skills.Chain lower off.FFA Gareth Llewllin.17. 1.04

Donkey Kong Jnr 10m 23
Located on northeast side of The Tower and just right of giant chossy cave. Novelty sport climbing up blobs holds. One very high first BR and 2 RBs lead to DRB lower off. FFA Kent Paterson, Neil Monteith. 22.2.04

MOTHER BUTTRESS

Topo of Mother Buttress by Neil Monteith

* Split Decision 25m 19
Excellent wall climbing. Starts 5m left of I Need My Mother on south facing wall of Mother Buttress. Easily up for five metres to horizontal. Clip BR and layback up little reachy flake to gain line. Weave up jugs, flakes and cracks past a further two BR¹s and lots of good wire placements to slabby top-out. Rap off double u-bolts on ledge (25m). Bolts were added after ground-up first ascent. FFA Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson 14.3.2005

* Blunted Enthusiasm 25m 20 (mixed)
Turtle shell wall climbing. A runout sport route or a very safe mixed climb. Starts 5m left of Split Decision. Up easy slab to horizontal. Balance up seam (UB) and then blast up jugs to stance. Take the right bolted line past a further three UB¹s to top. A limited selection of large wires and medium cams supplement the five bolts. Rap off double UBs above Split Decision. FFA Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter 15.10.2005

Early Riser 25m 19 (mixed)
Neil had this cleaned and bolted before anyone else got out of bed. An slightly easier trad finish to Blunted Enthusiasm. After the second UB take the left line (RB) to thin crack. Finish up well protected wall about 2m left of Blunted Enthusiasm. FFA Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert 15.10.2005

THE STUDIO

** Seven Diamond Experience 26m 25
Starts 4m left of Oh Hum at overhung black offwidth. Layback up wide crack which quickly turns into handcrack. Five metres from the ground step left from crack onto gorgeous orange bulgy wall. Long moves on jugs lead to FH. Over bulge to second FH. Tenuous layaway moves up orange wall above (optional hard to place wire) lead to easier ground. Head slightly left up wall above to finish at DRB lower-off. Take a single set of trad gear to fist crack size. FFA Neil Monteith, Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert & Mike File 3.4.2005

We also repeated the route Joan (18) and can confirm the one star. It is an excellent route!

Photos of Seven Diamond and Split Decision route can be found here. (Not to mention in Rock and The Age! Ed)

THE GALLERY

ANKLE BITER BOULDER

Roadside face 10m Grade 3
Gordon Bedford and the ankle biters.29/9/05

THE FORTRESS

GRAHAM'S CREEK

Access: 700m North of Grahams Creek crossing on Harrop track a cairn marks the walking track. Graham's Creek crag (Ant Wall, Good Friday Wall, etc) is the orange north facing wall visible above the tree tops from the road. Diseased Wall is the large grey wall in the distance. Flame Wall is the bright orange block on the right of Diseased Wall beyond Graham's Creek crag.
Follow the marked track for about 5 mins. to an old vehicle track and cairn. Turn right, walk about 20m then left again to continue across the hill to cross creek. The track continues up then across rocky slope, following cairns to crag. First climb encountered is Ants Pants, starting off top of ant mound bouldery start to crack. All climbs are described from this point.

Walking times:
Harrop tk to Graham's creek crag 25-30 min
Harrop tk to The Gorge 35 min.
Harrop tk to Flame Wall 50-60 min

A worthwhile excursion when returning from Flame Wall is to follow down the creek bed and into The Gorge proper and then back up to Good Friday Wall. If the creek is flowing strongly the slippery ramp below Rock Lobster can be avoided by a keyhole on the right leading into an amazing bouldering cave.

GRAHAM'S CREEK - BABY BUTTRESS

Baby Bum 12m 18
Starts 8m L of TC. Up horizontal bulges to seam. Up this to top. Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly. October 2004

The Crib 10m 22
Starts 4m L of WM at RB. Bouldery start just R of bolt. R to WM's bolt, back L on jugs to crib. Have a lie down and cry, then up easily. Steve Chapman. March 2005-04-10

Where's Mum? 10m 22
Start as for LBDO. At 2m traverse left to bolt. Crank up R to jugs and wire. Easier climbing to top. Steve Chapman, Kaz Anwin. March 2005.

Lachlan's Big Day Out 10m 19
Boulder up to horizontal. Step R into the finger crack and up. Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes. October 2004

GRAHAM'S CREEK - ANT WALL

* Ants Pants 15m 25
Tread carefully to start off top of termite mound. Bouldery start past fixed wire to crack. Crack to finish. Note: Start can be aided to give sustained crack climbing at about 24. Michael O'Reilly, Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman. October 2004 (Note: not a clean ascent yet - Michael boulder start, Robin & others top section!).

**Elle McFerret 18m 24
Great climbing on excellent rock. Start 5m L of AP. Boulder start to gain crack (shallow wire at full stretch). Bomber gear and sustained climbing to below roof. Committing pull past bulge via crimps in the black streak to good #2 camalot placement. Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly and Robin Holmes October 2004.

*Celebrity Rooter 20m 22
A fine route marred slightly by a fragile exit. Starts left of EM, 2m left of blunt arête at left end of wall. Follow twin cracks to good holds and gear at steepening. Committing climbing to ledge. Step right to belay and rap anchors. Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes. Sept 2004 Initial escape was off right past dodgy tree and above. Alternatively up big chimney.

GRAHAM'S CREEK - GOOD FRIDAY WALL

*The Lying Rodent 22m 18/19?
Starts at the short splitter finger crack on the small wall just right of the major orange wall. Climb the crack with difficulty to the ledge. Climb over the bulging buttress and the short corner above to the ledge. Organise protection and then traverse left one metre to the arête. This is the right arête of the major orange wall. Climb the arête in a fabulous position to the next ledge. Finish up the crack above, or the arête on the left. Belay on the large ledge. Scramble up to the top and down climb the pinnacle at the back. Michael O'Reilly and Ross Timms 1.10.2004

Battling The Bulge 20m 26** [Mixed]
Slick and sustained old-school Arapiles style line. The central route of the middle buttress. Leap for jug from rock cairn (FH), then up short face to fingercrack. Up this for 6m to slight stance. Swing right across awkward bulging face (FH) to below final seam. Up this which eases to jugs and lower-off anchor. Bring a full rack and some slings to extend runners in the traverse. Descent: Lower-off . FFA Neil Monteith 01-10-2005

* Ralphs Journey 16m 24
Start behind clump of callitris 5m R of cleft separating R & L walls. Stick clip FH. Bouldery thin moves to gain crack proper. Up on good finger locks to horizontal. Traverse R 3m and up over bulges. Sustained pump with sinker wires. Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, Adam Demmert, Jackie Bernardi. April 2005. (Ed: this route looks great)

Baldy and Fattys big adventure 16m 15
3M left of Ralphs Journey on R side of cleft separating R & L walls, Climb the right side of the cleft to the top. Rob Booth and Ross Timms

Fried Day 20m 23 (project - Rob Booth)
Bolting incomplete. Starts 4 meters right of May day / Burn out behind the detached small pillar (you can see the climb clearly in the topo (see link above)). A few big moves on sketchy feet to nice climbing on the leftward leaning upside-down staircase. FTRA Rob Booth, Steve Chapman 04/2005

** Burnt Out 20m 22
Start as for May Day. At MD¹s traverse left continue straight up corner and start of head wall past three BR¹s to break, #3 camalot, then continue past one more BR (hard clip) to run it out to the top (possible wires). Walk off top. Adam Demmert, Alastair Hudson 23.4.2005

May Day 25m 18
Climbs the left leaning doglegged crack that goes up the middle of the orange wall (left of the major orange wall). Scramble up the easy slab to the belay ledge just below the major crack. Climb the corner/crack to the horizontal break. Traverse left one metre and then climb the crack above to a tricky mantle onto a dirty ledge. Climb the deep crack/chimney above to the top. Descend via the gully on the left of the cliff.

Kazual 40m 16
An atmospheric adventure up the left side of the main wall. Start behind the conifer 5m R of NS. Up the grey slab then follow easy ramp L to steep orange cracks and through small roof. Excellent view. Steve Chapman, Kaz Anwin. March 2005.

Napalm Sunday 20m 14
(see vic ranges guide)

Flying Possum 20m 21
Start 3m L of Napalm Sunday. Up crack then step L at second horizontal then up shallow corner. Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman. October 2004

About 10m up and left of FP:

Poets Corner 14m 19
Start on ledge under the beautiful but too short orange corner left under roof and on up to the top! Rob Booth and Steve Chapman. March 2005

GRAHAM'S CREEK - GAY WELDERS WALL

Gay Welders Have Hotter Rods 8m 21
Starts 15m L of Flying Possum. Nice short face climb. #3 wire in sideways protects crux. Go up. Steve Chapman, Ross Timms, Tuesday Phelan. April 2005.

Alex Flashdance 8m 23
Starts 3m L of GWHHR. Up over bulge to a long reach from undercling. Alternatively pike left into easy going at 5m or why not just walk around the back. Steve Chapman, Ross Timms. April 2005.

Filthy Girls. 8m 15
(route description to be added - crack?) Tuesday Phelan, Anne Redfern. April 2005.

GRAHAM'S CREEK - THE GORGE

*Back in Black 30m 21
Start 5m R of Wonga Park RFB. Black crack then R to ledge. Clip BR then climb bulges on R to break. Crack to top. Robin Holmes, Steven Wilson 2/4/05

Wonga Park RFB 20m 16
Starts 5m L of BIB(as for Vic Range Guide)

*Rock Lobster 28m 19
Start off ledge left of WPRFB(as for Vic Range Guide)

GRAHAM'S CREEK - FLAME WALL

Starsky and Thrutch 10m 16 Wide bulging crack on lower cliff, 10m left of access gully to the left side of Flame Wall. Anita Sharma, Robin Holmes 20/2/05

The Thin Red Line (project)
Bolted project up impressive red face. Steve Chapman

** Slow Burn 18m 23
A sustained face, neglected for several months after bolting. The 4m direct start to the ledge has been done but awaits a bolt. In the meantime, start 4m further L beneath The Thin Red Line, where a good wire protects the moves to the ledge. Move 4m R on ledge, then climb the face 3m L of the thin crack (Edge Burner), past 3FH, med-large wires and a #1.75Fr. The high DRB anchor can be accessed from above. Will Monks, Malcolm Matheson, Gareth Llewelin, Neil Monteith 18.9.05

**Edge Burner 25m 23
Excellent climbing, bomber protection. Up OOC to 4th FH. Ooze 3m L to horn. Directly up lovely crack and over roof. Continue up to RB lower off. Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes. 5/3/2005.

**Out of Control 25m 24
Start from back of block (FH) at end of pinacle. Up corner to ledge. Step R then up bulges to rest. Step up to FH then monkey R on unexpected buckets. Turn the roof at scoop. Swing R to finish up white water wash then slightly L to RB lower off (note: near 50m lower off to top of pinacle - tie rope end to belay FH) Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman etc. 20/2/05

** Flaming Lips 27m 26 (S)
Big time cave climbing up right side of the orange wave. Scramble in from the left side onto belay ledge 15m from the ground. Belay off single FH. Head up and right easily for 8m to small ledge and UB. Take a breath and start climbing up and out past eight bolts in incredible positions to finish in small cave. Hard moves are at third and sixth bolts. Good foot jams, knee bars and leg slots can be found for recovery all the way up. Use a 60m rope for lower-off ­ and tie a knot in the end! FFA Neil Monteith, Mike File & Kent Paterson 12.3.2005

GRAHAM'S CREEK - DISEASED WALL

Spinal Column (VRG p.69)
Neil Monteith reports: "Loose and mossy with many lurking death blocks. Can be lead easily in two long pitches. Shaded almost all day. Closer to 80m in height."

Welder¹s Butt Crack 45m 12
Climbs wall above the 'operating theatre' on Diseased Wall. Starts 25m left of the finish of Spinal Column. Very juggy corner leads to ledge and optional belay. Keep plodding upwards to finish up steep arête and summit glory. Walk off and descend down western side. Gay Welders Union 23.4.2005

Accidental Incision During Surgery (AIDS) 105m 21
(1) 40m 12. Starts 12m right of Spinal Column. Wander up middle of wall on good jugs to small belay stance. Some loose rock. (2) 30m 13. Continue up face to belay ledge level with Operating Theatre (this is the same belay point at the end of Spinal Column). Walk 20m left behind block to Operating Theatre Ledge. (3) 20m 21. Hard start up behind tree and good moves up middle of face on slopers and small edges. Continue up to small ledge. (4) 15m 19. Head up overhanging wall to large horizontal break then traverse right to arête and up. Harder direct finish is possible but needs bolt. To descend walk back and left across rock until you can climb down a few metres, then walk left towards treed gully looking for cairn at top of small wall. Scramble down short face and then down scrub gully to bottom. Jono Schmidt (pitch 1,2,4 Rich Ham (pitch 3) 23.4.2005

THE FLATIRON

25-30 min, walk-in, 50 min if water works track access is closed. Faces North so makes for a good winter crag. Protection from light rain.

* Iron Awe 31m 21?
Named by (and stolen from!) Rob. The amazing LH rising traverse starting at ground level 15m from the start of the cliff and finishing at the DBB above Extreme Ironing has now been climbed in its' entirety. The climb is well protected and climbs excellent rock. Take all of your cams, and some of your mate's! It is yet to receive a continuous ascent. The grade of pitch 2 is the subject of some debate in the range of 20-22. 1) (20m 21) Climb the well protected rising diagonal crack/ledge system awkwardly to the DBB above Black Iron. 2) (25m 21?) Traverse L along break to Iron Maiden DBB. Eats cams up to #3Fr. 3) (6m 14) Keep traversing L to Extreme Ironing DBB. Rap off. (1) Michael O'Reilly, Rob Booth 4-01-06 (2) Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff 12/6/05. (3) Steve Chapman, Rob Booth Apr/May 05.

Swarf 9m 23?
Needs to be swept up. Up right hand crack and across left to DB Lower Off FA Steve Chapman, Rob Booth May 05

Black Iron 8m 19/20
Nice climbing but too short, just power up the black streak to the DBA. The second pitch looks quite a test piece... HB? FFA Rob Booth, Steve Chapman May 05

4. Iron Lady 15m 19
Up the right leaning crack system over the technical bulge and up to the R H traverse to DBA above Black IronFA Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, Tuesday Phelan May 05

7.***Iron Maiden 15m 24
Straight up the lovely orange corner on perfect Grampians rock to DBA Technically only 23 but quite a bridging and lay backing test piece! As for the second pitch I'm not sure what the number of the beast will be! Possibly 28? FA Rob Booth, Steve FFA Chapman, Robin Holmes, Steve Wilson

*Extreme Ironing 18m 25
Easy start before you clip the B and hit the technical layback and go into the nice hand jamb before the finishing jugs Etc FFA Steve Chapman, Rob Booth

Sand Iron 18m 23
The horrible sandy crack system below the crux crack of IS FTRA Rob Booth, Steve Chapman May 05

**Iron Side 18m 23
Just keeps getting harder, after the easy start, climb the crack system on the left of the arête to the mantle and stance just before clipping the bolt, don't pump out too much holding the horizontal under cling before stepping right to position yourself for the fingertip layback (crux) to slap the jug with a few more moves to the DBB FFA Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, Karin Anwin

13.*New Wave Old Hat 18m 14
The original climb on the cliff FA.

Part 2 of the cliff - (Left of the major corner of NWOH)

18. Pet Willow Iron 15m 15
Right crack finishing left at lower off. FA Jevon Hardware, Maria Lastra May 05

19. Iron Filings 15m 19
Good old style climbing. The middle of three cracks right of gray buttress. FA Robin Holmes, Steven Wilson. April 05

20.Angle Iron 15m 20
Nice climb for gym bunnies. The left corner crack then carefully step right at blocky section then up to lower off as for Iron Filing. FA Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes. April 05

21. *Pumping Iron 28m 22
1. (20) Start 3m L of AI heading up right edge of gray buttress. At steepening step right to follow thin crack through bulge. Up left then carefully up through finger like rocks to belay on ledge (bolt + wire). 2. (22) Small wires/RP's to get started. Blast up strenuous crack with bomber gear. Hanging belay on left (large wires). FFA Robin Holmes (1 &2) Steven Wilson, Tuesday Phelan (pitch 1) May 05

25. *Jaffle Iron 15m 16
(Better than it looks!) Up corner over bulge and left onto ledge FA Rob Booth, Ross Timms, Tuesday Phelan, May 05

27. Ironear 15m 15
Start 1m right of the crack of Iron Lung on the crazed wall up to obvious RH of the three cracks and stay in it till the top. FA Rob Booth, Ross Timms May 05

28. *Iron Lung 15m 19
Up the easy corner and crack above FA Rob Booth, Ross Timms May 05

29. *Irony 16m 20
(the irony is it's a better climb than the original line strait up Iron Lung!) Up Iron Lung for aprox 6m and left below bulge and up obvious LH crack FA Steven Wilson Tuesday Phelan May 05

* Against the Tide 16 65m
At the left hand end of the overhang above the lower tier is a groove in a left facing corner. (Approx 80m L of Irony - Ed) The route starts below and just to the right of this corner. It takes the corner and the wide continuation crack above. A traditional line and a classic struggle in an area of steep modern climbs. 1) (16 25m) Deceptive moves up and to the left lead to a good rest before the corner proper. The corner is quickly despatched, unless it's raining, to reach some awkward moves. Gain the belay ledge above by some thin moves up and a final move to the right. 2) (11 40m) A classic chimney pitch leads to the second trial. A few quick moves lead up a wall to a large chockstone blocking the way. Bravely wrestle the chockstone and move up to the final task. The wide crack now leans ominously outwards, just as the end is in sight. Climb up into the niche and make bold moves to gain the belay ledge above. A final scramble through the cave-crack above and the top of the cliff is yours... best climbed on a sunny afternoon to apreciate the golden glow from the final cave. Pitch 1, Robin Holmes (date?), Pitch 2, Alastair Hudson (12/6/05)

Flatiron - The Upper Tier

35. Permanent Press 12m 15
A good old-fashioned corner complete with loose rocks dirt and bushes the first 5m is excellent climbing though! FA Rob Booth, Ross Timms May 05

Flatiron - The Pinnacles

Topo of Summit Fever, by Jono Schmidt. This route is on the left hand pinnacle, the right hand pinnacle is just visible in this photo.

* Summit Fever 25m 20
Excellent steep climbing on quality rock. Climb the line of least resistance 6m left of the arete and then traverse up and right with no protection (crux) and follow the obvious right leading diagonal line to the arete and the top. Scramble off the back of the wall. FFA Jono Schmidt & James Pfrunder 12/06/05 (Ed: this route is likely a repeat of an early 90s ascent which appeared in Argus then gathered dust due to the dearth of Vic Range guidebooks since then - recorded here until everything's sorted out)

Flatiron Surrounds

Lost in Deep Space 20m Gr 14
Start about 30m north of saddle at orange left facing corner. Cairned. 20m. Steeply up corner to overhang. Step right then back left to large sloping ledge. Move left along ledge to shallow right leading diagonal cracks and up. Glen Donohue, James McIntosh 18/02/2005

Beyond Gravity 40m Gr 12
Start about 50m left and around the corner from Lost in Deep Space halfway up the large sloping terrace. 40m. Up wall, passing the left hand end of the orange overhang at half height. James McIntosh, Glen Donohue 18/02/2005

CURIOSITY CRAG

GENERAL: Curiosity Crag is situated in an amphitheatre 100m before crossing the creek at Slander Gully. The only previously recorded climb here appears to be Night Owl Theatre grade14!! "probably under graded" by Peter Treby in 1985 (Vic Ranges Guide). The first pitch of Grease Nipples 20 (Mentz Tempest Guide) passes through the right-hand corner of the amphitheatre. Around a dozen new routes have been recorded in 2003. The area has potential for more new routes and some bouldering. Bolts, where used, are stainless steel to current best practice. Some gear is required on most routes. Rock quality varies from average to exceptional. The climbs on the orange wall A all offer sustained pleasure, while those on B wall provide a variety of challenges on rock that is steeper and thinner than appearances suggest. Around the corner, Robin's 22 provides steep gym climbing and more potential for harder stuff. The crag is very well sheltered from the sun and wind and climbing is possible on the steeper south facing orange wall in most weather conditions. Access is very easy and while the atmosphere is relaxing, the climbing should get your pulse pumping.

ACCESS: To get to Curiosity Crag follow the directions for Slander Gully. At the crest of the hill on the 4WD track (100m before the creek at Slander Gully) a double cairn marks the walking track heading uphill and right for 200m to the crag. If the Waterworks Track is open, walking time is only a few minutes. (See map.)

Descent: Rap anchors have been placed at the top of The Generator Route and The Extension Lead on Lower Curiosity Wall. The anchor on the top of The Extension Lead also services Bug Powder Dust. Rap anchors have also been placed at the top of Moonlight Wall above Gerni To The Centre Of The Earth.

To get off other climbs walk back to descent track. Route 10 has a double ring to lower off and access to the top of B wall is an easy scramble (see topo - argus sep 03)

1. Big Nose 12m 18
Start at the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, (where the descent track meets the wall). Committing moves up thin crack, move right and up overhang for five metres, veer left with easier climbing to the top. Continuing straight up makes for a more sustained finish. Bold. Rob Booth, Jill Gara, & Ross Timms. 19.04.03

2. Sticky Beak 12m 16/17
Climb past loose block up shallow crack. Start in middle of second small tor down from Bug Powder Dust. Jill Gara, Micheal O'Reilly, Tuesday Phelan. March 2003

3. Bird's Nest Soup 10m 14
Start towards the back of the high ledge. Straight up block on jugs. Access to ledge from descent gully. Tuesday Phelan, Jill Gara. January 2003

I'm Black and I'm Proud 12m 20
Variant finish to Bug Powder Dust. Start as for 2nd pitch of BPD. Climb the left side of the pale central streak direct through top bulge. Swing right to top out. Blackness courtesy of the previous week's Vicparks "controlled burn". Will Monks, Nic Cotton, Cameron Barrett, Micheal O'Reilly 26/10/03

4. *Bug Powder Dust 27m 18
Starts just left of grey arête. Follow 2 BRs to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another BR for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Jill Gara, Michael O'Reilly, Robin Holmes. Feb 2003

5. *The Generator Route 12m 22
Nice warm up for the following 3 routes, 6m right of Bug Powder Dust, 3 BRs to ledge and DBB. 2nd pitch possible: 14m (23) from the ledge hard move then nice climbing up the right side of the arête. Or continue up Bug Powder Dust. Rob Booth, Steve Chapman. May 2003

* The Extension Lead 12m 18 [sports route]
Stars on halfway ledge 2m right of Bug Powder. Clip the carrot on Bug Powder Dust and follow the 3FHs up right on the arête to DBB. (25m rap) Rob Booth, Ross Timms March '06

6. **Screaming Trees 25m 26
Up past two FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to third FH. Thin moves over bulge bring some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay. Steve Chapman and Steven Wilson October 2003

* Screaming Trees Variant 12m 21
First part of Screaming Trees past 2 FH and wires to horizontal break, traverse left to the anchors on The Generator.

7. **Night Owl Theatre 18
(This is an edited version of the original description) Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing. The original route on the cliff. 1. 30m Start up the line which splits the wall. At the overhang, traverse right and finish up the right-hand crack. Peter Treby, Andrew Webb, Neil Barr. 10.6.85.

Deadly Earnest 35m 17
A scary girdle traverse on friable rock. 1) 10m Up sandy cleft R of Night Owl Theatre with no runners. 2) 25m (crux) Step across left, around arete, gingerly down and continue left to welcome ledge. Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, Nick Tapp 31.01.93

8. ***Careful With That Axe, Liam 30m 23
Sustained face climbing. Starts 5m right of Night Owl Theatre. Directly up the wall past 6 FHs. Medium wires and cams protect the shallow grey corner heading right to last FH. Launch up left on jugs. Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes. February 2003

*** Cat Power 36m 24
A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. A single rope will suffice if you take a few 60cm draws. Start up Careful With That Axe to 4th FH. Traverse right 5m past FH to join Curiosity. Continue up past 2 more FH's to break. Back L for 2m then finish up past FH as for Curiosity. Medium cams protect the grey bulges. Endurance climbing on great rock. Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman March'06.

9. **Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat 30m 25
Starts 5m right of Careful With That Axe.. Take medium cams. The crux can be solved left or right of the 2nd FH. Sustained climbing past 3 more FHs to horizontal break. Move 1m left and up over grey bulge on crimps. Head diagonally right to final FH and the happy jugs. Steve Chapman, Brian Gray. May 2003

* Catatonia 32m 23
Starts 8m right of Curiosity on the black streak. Up to 2nd FH taking heed of the flexible block on the left. Head left then back right above 2nd FH to gain a rest in the grey corner. Swing around right of the arête to FH and up to the long blunt grey arête above. Climbing is often just left of the arête with adequate gear on the arête proper. Steve Chapman, Jill Gara. March'06

10. The Lynx Effect 30m 23
Starts in the chasm 15m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat. Up the steep fracture for 8m and finger traverse leftwards 3m to rest on the grey arête (belay possible to eliminate drag). Absorbing climbing directly up the arête to the highest point on the buttress. Double up on small wires, a few small cams are handy, despite appearances, protection is very good. Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara. July 2003

*Cat Scratch Fever 30m 23
Follow Lynx Effect (no.10) for 8m to where it traverses left. Arrange gear and launch straight up on crimps. Watch your back on the wall behind if you fall. Continue directly up grey wall. Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes. September 2003

11. Separation Anxiety 15m 20
Start in middle of black wall at the top of the grotto under the orange overhang. Up edges on slab to stance below overhang, veer right then exit left to rap anchor. Rob Booth, Jill Gara. 19.04.03

* Ab Slab 15m 23 [sports route]
Follow line of rings on slab to the right of Separation Anxiety. Brendon and Chris Abernethy Feb.'04

Curiosity Crag - Moonlight Wall

12. A Paler Shade Of White 22m 21
Bold climbing left-wards along the rising traverse, starts at the weakness 6m left of Traditional Arrangement. Double ropes are useful. A small wire can be found, low down, two thirds along the traverse. Continue up the easy arête at the end of the traverse to finish at the large ledge. From the belay it is possible to scramble off by climbing around to the left and then up to the top of the cliff. Or a short pitch, across and down right, to the start of routes 14, 15, 16. Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, Robin Holmes. March 2003

13. Traditional Arrangement 13m 18
Follow the right leaning hand/fist crack starting in the middle of the wall at ground level. Harder than it looks. Finishes on the large ledge at half-height. Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, Robin Holmes. February 2003

The following routes start on the ledge at half height. They can be reached by climbing Traditional Arrangement or from the start of (Route13 - Traditional Arrangement on the arête).

Gerni To The Centre Of The Earth 12m 22
Will clean up with traffic. Starts on the ledge at FA 2m left of Controlled Burn.Up to shallow corner to rap anchor. Steve Chapman, Rob Booth 15.04.06

* Controlled Burn 14m 22
Starts below bolt in the middle of face, climb left past bolt then right to gear placement. Committing climbing to top on slopey bulges. Take small cams and wires.Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman. Oct.'03

16. *Moonlight Mile 11m 20
Starts approx. 2/3m right of Project (Bolt), and 4m left of the right arête. Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above. Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara. March 2003

15. *Emotional Rescue 12m 22
Starts as for Moonlight Mile. Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux). Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara. March 2003

14. *Tarzan's Swing 16m 22
(Sport route.) Starts below carrot 3m right of arête. Follow grey wall and arête past RBs to lower off. Robin Homes, Steve Chapman. March 2003

Densei 15m 24
Right side of scoops, 4m right of Tarzan Swing. 6 RBs to DRB lower off. Ramon Francis, Philip Bogenschütz, Brendon Abernethy. 26.10.03

The Organiser 12m 25
15m right of Tarzan Swing are scoops, left side of these. 5 RBs to DRB lower off. Brendon Abernethy 26.10.03

SLANDER GULLY

BROWN'S CREEK GORGE

Hawkerboy 25m Gr 15
Starts about 15m right of orange overhangs. Up right facing corner to large ledge at third height. Continue up corner, passing overhang by stepping left onto ledge then back into corner. Glen Donohue, James McIntosh 26/3/2005

The routes here are made available on this site on an "as received" basis without any verification by the VCC. Thus, listed routes may have inaccurate details such as grade/length/location etc, or may be entirely fictional. If you have any information that clarifies or questions existing route descriptions, please send it in to .

Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria.

BLACK IAN'S ROCKS

Habeus Corpus (14)
A few of us did this and thought it more like 12. (Some did Habeus Corpus (14), GBH (14), and Minor Offence(14) and thought each harder than the last!?).

Sedgy: "I also think it is definetly not 14. 12 is probably right. "

Hard Labour (15). Serves me right for going up such a dirty slab, but I thought it more like 17.

Loitering With Intent (21), 1m right of GBH, is in the North Gramps guide (p.262) but seems to have been missed from The Black Guide and the Update.

The Hanging Variant Start 25m 10
Sedgy pointed this one out, it's not unpleasant... Start 10m right of The Hanging, bridge up the short corner, walk across the cave, step out left and up the pillar. Long sling useful to thread the window. FADU.

Information regarding replacement/installation of bolts and abseil anchors can be found at Safer Cliffs Victoria.

YOU YANGS

FLINDERS SLABS

Royalty Wall Area

CRESSY GULLY ROAD

The Fairground a.k.a. The Lodge

Torn Tips 24 12m
On north side of block 2FH and cam. Start on right side of bolt up traverse left level with bolt then up onto small slab to break (cam) then over large flake to FH then up.Hopefully you won't find out the basis of the name. FA Richard Lodge Sep 2003

Numb Tips 21 14m
Around arete right of Torn Tips 3FH. Straight up slab passing small rooflet on the way which can be avoided. FA Richard lodge Sep 2003

Get off that arete you piker 21 14m
3m right of Numb Tips 1FH follow faint seam up to bolt and stance on arete. Then diagonally right to break(cam) over small rooflet to stance on large flake up. FA Richard Lodge

P.S The AKA name was not my idea i swear.

Hopkins River Cave